Clematis 'Taiga' (photo from Gardening Express)

Clematis Background

Clematis is a Greek word which simply means a climbing plant. And, they definitely climb – some only two feet, most 5-8 feet and others up to 30 feet! In North America, we usually say clem-AT-is, yet in England, you’re more likely to hear CLEM-uh-tis. There are several hundred clematis species world-wide, and their variety is impressive.

“Lots of gardeners grow the classic purple ‘Jackmanni,’ and we want to show them there are so many more cool climbers in a kaleidoscope of colors, sizes and forms -- even some repeat blooms,” says Jared. “They’re the perfect plant to grow up a trellis in a large or small garden, in a container or over a wall or tree stump.”

Here in the Midwest, dozens of clematis are cold hardy (Zones 4-9). Some clematis vines linger through winter temperatures, while others die back to the ground after a hard freeze and return each spring. Flower sizes range from two inches to 10 inches, and single blooms are the most common. As flowers
age, their outer petals fall away revealing a central pom-pom. Beyond singles, there are also double and bell-shaped blooms. Pollinators are drawn to clematis for their showy colors, abundance of flowers, and copious amounts of pollen and nectar.

Growing Clematis

Proper planting is a key to a clematis’s success. First, select a mature plant that’s hardy for your growing zone. Most prefer a sunny location with moist, well-drained soil. Dig a hole six inches deeper than the depth of the pot. Place the plant in the hole and gently bury the first six inches of growth taking care not
to break the stems.

Water well twice a week for the first six weeks. After that, water once a week if its dry. Clematis prefer “cool feet and sunny shoulders,” so try shading the base with other plants like hostas or daylilies and adding a layer of mulch especially when planting clematis along a hot, reflective west- or south-facing wall.

Supporting Clematis

Most clematis vines climb by wrapping their short leaf stems (petioles) around a narrow support that’s ¾-inch at most in diameter. For wider supports, add a few “helper lines” of twine or fishing line to get them started. Some of our favorite supports include a wall trellis, a tripod of bamboo poles (or cedar stakes) in a perennial border, and an obelisk in a container. Shorter clematis varieties like ‘Rouge Cardinal’ and ‘Pink Fantasy’ can be grown in containers year after year. Just make sure pots are at least 18 to 20 inches in diameter, and overwinter the potted plants in an unheated garage until mid-April.

Design Tips

Beyond a trellis, allow clematis vines to climb over a ledge, up a lamp post, through a tree or arborvitae and even ramble as groundcover.

“Clematis can add surprising color to a shrub rose, conifer or tree by planting one at the base,” says Jared. “Imagine a ‘Sweet Autumn’ clematis vine climbing up an older crabapple tree for a magical second round of blooms.”

Pruning

The “ponytail cut” is the simplest pruning technique and works well for most Midwestern clematis varieties. In late winter or early spring, grab a handful of growth and chop off 6 to 9 inches above soil level. The pruning will encourage fuller new growth. Some double varieties need special care, and other varieties can become top heavy with blooms if left unpruned. For more pruning details, visit the International Clematis Society’s pruning guide.

Unique Varieties

• Repeat and continuous bloomers: Varieties like ‘Vancouver Sea Breeze’ and ‘Toki’ will bloom in early spring, take a break in the heat of the summer and return with more blooms into the fall.
• Double bloomers: For extravagant blooms, try ‘Taiga’ with two-tone flowers in purple and cream or ‘Piilu’ with two-tone pink ruffled flowers.
• Color changers: Try ‘Arabella’ with flowers that open violet-blue then develop mauve centers and fade to soft blue with age.
• Plate-sized bloomer: ‘The First Lady’ features impressive blooms up to 10”.
• Cut flowers: Several varieties, like ‘Dr. Ruppel’ in lavender pink, make great cut flowers. Either cut long stems for a vase or float blooms in a bowl of water.
• Dwarf vines: A few dwarf varieties grow into a small shrub with bell-shaped flowers. Try ‘Stand By Me’ in blue, ‘Little Lemons’ in yellow, ‘Rebecca’ in red or ‘Acropolis’ in hot pink.
• Shade varieties: While most prefer sun, a few varieties like ‘Silver Moon’ and ‘Claire de Lune’ are adapted for part shade.
• Fragrant favorites: A handful of varieties are known for their scent. Try ‘Fair Rosamund,’ ‘Vancouver Fragrant Star,’ and ‘Capitaine Thuilleaux.’

With its iconic scent, long-lasting flowers and drought tolerance, it’s no wonder lavender is an all-time favorite perennial! We absolutely love this scented herb and grow several varieties especially suited for Midwestern gardens. Here’s a growing guide to ensure success with these aromatic darlings.

History of Lavender
Lavender’s calming fragrance has been cherished for 2,500 years back to the ancient Greeks and Romans who first planted it to scent their bathes. In fact, lavender’s name comes from the Latin word “lavare” which means “to wash.” Today, lavender is still cultivated for its essential oils for soaps, candles and perfumes. The herb is also treasured for its flavor. Bakers use dried buds - whole or crushed -- in sweet scones, cookies and breads, while chefs use them in savory rubs, marinades, sauces and the French herb blend “Herbs de Provence.” Mixologists even use the buds in simple syrups to flavor cocktails, lemonade or iced tea.

Types of lavender
Lavender, native to the Mediterranean region and part of the mint family, adapts well to the Midwest’s growing conditions. The key is to select the hardiest varieties among the 30 different lavender species. Following are four top picks.
- English lavenders (Lavandula angustifolia) feature blue-green leaves and small, tight flower clusters that bloom in early summer. They are fragrant, the go-to for culinary gardeners and hardy to zone 5. Try ‘Munstead’ or ‘Hidcote’ varieties that tolerate humidity better than others.
- Lavandin hybrids (Lavandula x intermedia) are English lavender hybrids that bloom later and have a higher essential oil content. Gardeners appreciate their large gray-green leaves, strong fragrance and fast growth rate. Try ‘Phenomenal,’ ‘Grosso’ or ‘Provence’ – the famous perfume lavender.
- French lavenders (Lavandula dentata) have smaller, more delicate and later blooming flowers than English lavenders. Their leaves are more needle-like and toothed, hence the species name dentata. These lavenders are native to Southern France and thrive in full sun and gritty soil.
- Spanish lavenders (Lavandula stoechas) have spikes of purple flowers topped with white or yellow tufts. Native to Spain and Portugal, these lavenders are hardy to zone 7, so they are typically grown as an annual in colder northern climates.

How to Grow Lavender
Lavender is a relatively easy plant to grow. They just need plenty of full sun and well-drained soil –ideally a slope or gravely soil. They can be grown either in the ground or in containers. Water new plants regularly until established then go easy on the water. Overwatering (and even heavy snowfall) can cause lavender roots to rot. Deadhead spent flowers to encourage new blooms. For English lavenders, prune them in late August, cutting up to two thirds of the plant’s height. To harvest and preserve lavender flowers, cut stems when blooms are fully open then hang clusters upside down in a cool, dark place to dry. Remember to leave a few flowers for the pollinators that feed on the pollen and nectar.

For Liz, she adores her mom’s towering delphiniums, her bloom-loaded hydrangeas and her colorful collection of coneflowers. She proudly carries on her mom’s spring planting tradition with their own daughters. This spring, Liz and the girls are planting a big vegetable garden with plenty of tomatoes. The girls will help plant lots of zinnia seeds too, so they’ll have plenty for bouquets this summer.

Read on to continue this nostalgic journey as we look back at generational plants and gardening trends through the decades, beginning with the 1940s.

1940-50s
The decade opened with a call to plant Victory Gardens of fruits and vegetables to counter produce shortages during WWII. As huge numbers of men left to serve overseas, an influx of women entered the workforce and brought houseplants like African violets to work to accent their desks. Post war, the US experienced a housing boom thanks to support from the the GI bill. The American backyard emerged as a place for gardening and leisure; and the front yard become a source of pride or “keeping up with the Jones.” This generation, many that endured the Great Depression, valued long-lasting perennials and shrubs like peonies, roses and lilacs along with multiplying plants like lily-of-the valley, daffodils, daylilies and rose of sharon. They also appreciated annuals like marigolds and zinnias in which they could easily save seeds and replant next year. More premiums plants like geraniums, begonias, fushias and petunias were often reserved for special pots.

1960s-70s
Carrying over from the 1950s, the Baby Boom fueled the rise of suburbs and increasing interest in the perfect lawn. Houseplants and tropicals took off as homeowners brought “exotic” plants into their homes and backyards. This was the era of orchids, philodendron, pothos vines and snake plants along with Tiki huts and Hawaiian cocktails complete with paper straws. The decade became known for its iconic shag carpet, Lucite furniture and mod colors. The 1970s ushered in a season of personal, easy-going style with bold colors and DIY projects. Remember the terrariums and hand-made macrame hanging baskets filled with spider plants or ferns? Raised bed vegetable gardens also became popular as an option for vegetable gardening on smaller suburban lots.

1980s-90s
In the era of “big is better,” houseplants like parlor palms filled sunrooms and over-the-top spa-like bathrooms with whirlpool tubs. Sadly, silk plants became trendy for a couple decades filling bookshelves, vases and cabinet tops. At this time, international design styles also influenced American homes and gardens. Gardeners carried this worldly flair into the landscape with Japanese tea gardens, English cottage gardens and French potager kitchen gardens. Fashionable plants were bamboo, Japanese maples, bonsai, English roses, topiaries, Dutch bulbs and French lavender. Later in the 90s, a more bohemian American Southwest style rallied with collections of cacti and succulents.

2000s and Beyond
The Tuscan style dominated the start of this new century followed by the modern farmhouse in 2010. Martha Stewart and HGTV spurred a new era of DIY gardeners in these years. Authors like Doug Tallamy prompted an environmental movement with naturalistic gardens, native plants and pollinator habitats. And more recently, with the pandemic, the 1970s houseplant craze returned along with a boom in new gardeners. And we’re forever grateful!

What plants will you pass on to the next generation?

What was the motivation to make the switch? We were concerned about the millions of plastic pots that were being sent to the landfill each year. As a business, we set a goal to reduce the amount of trash thrown away at the end of the season.

How did you find these biodegradable pots? We’ve been researching and experimenting with eco- friendly pot options for a couple years. We looked at everything from peat pots to coir pots and even cow pots made from recycled manure. We finally landed on these biodegradable pots that hold up to being wet in the greenhouse yet break down later in the garden. 

Will you still grow plants in plastic pots? Yes, we’re continuing to use and recycle plastic pots especially for long-term plants. The switch to biodegradable pots will be a gradual one.

Are biodegradable pots more expensive? Yes, the pots cost more, but we think the investment is worth it and expect pot prices to drop as others join us in this effort.

Do I leave the plant in the biodegradable pot when I place it in the ground? No, remove the plant first to allow the roots to fully grow. Otherwise, the pot will restrict roots and cause them to circle around the pot in an unhealthy way. See here for our demo video.

What do I do with the empty pots? Simply rip them up then scatter the pieces in the garden or add them to a compost pile. Again, see the video for deets. Start at the 2:11 minute mark for the break down breakdown!

What are the pots made of? These biodegradable pots are made of 100 percent post-consumer material like recycled cardboard pulp and wood fibers.

How long can I keep a plant in a pot? If you aren’t ready to plant your plants right away, you can keep them in these pots for a season. We find they breathe like a clay pot and tend to dry out quicker than plastic pots.

What else is Groovy Plants doing to be more green and environmentally sustainable?

In addition to these biodegradable pots, Groovy Plants uses biocontrols to manage diseases and pests, saves energy by growing many plants in unheated greenhouses, markets native plants and a wide selection of drought tolerant succulents and cacti, showcases pollinator plants in display gardens and offers educational classes and green gardening content on topics like pollinator gardens and native plants. We use micro-irrigation to conserve water and installed heated floors in our newest production facility to save energy. We also intentionally avoid selling invasive plants, harmful fertilizers, and toxic pesticides and insecticides.

See our growing team pot up some plants in our new pots here!

The Value of Botanical Names

Botanical names -- unlike common names -- are the standardized names of plants accepted by scientists no matter what languages they speak or where they are in the world. They are chosen by the first person to formally describe a species in a scientific article, and they can be updated over time if scientists learn new information.

Common names on the other hand vary by language, culture and region. They’re familiar but also can be confusing. Here at the Ranch, customers might innocently ask: “Where are the daisies?” Then, we’ll prompt: Do you mean the perennial white Shasta daisies (Leucanthemum), the colorful Gerbera daisies (Gerbera jamesonii), the annual African daisies (Osteospermum) or maybe the daisy-like ice plants (Delosperma)?  We love helping customers learn plants’ Latin names, so they know exactly what they’re shopping for.

History of Plant Naming

Three centuries ago, when early botanists traveled the world studying plants, they struggled to come up with a uniform way to classify the plants and animals they found in nature. They were coming up with cumbersome, crazy-long names. In 1735, Carl Linnaeus introduced his own more simplified approach that became a blueprint for scientists worldwide to follow. His binomial Latin system identifies plant species first with a generic name (genus) then a second more specific name (species). You’ll find they’re written in italics with the genus name capitalized but not the species epithet.

Elements of a Plant Name

This two-part naming system, while not perfect, endures today. The names reveal clues to how plants are related to each other. For newbies, it’s sometimes helpful to use the parallel of our own personal names where the genus is like our family name and the specific epithet is like our birth name. For example, Acer rubrum is a certain type of maple (Acer) that has red (rubrum) leaves. Other maple species will share the same genus (Acer) but will have a different species epithet. Beyond characteristics like color, plants may be named for people (Acer davidii) or places (Acer japonicum) where they were found.

Types of Subgroups

Plants are even further broken down within a species.

• Variety (var.) refers to a variation within a plant species that develops naturally in the environment. One example is Acer rubrum var. trilobum (Trident maple).
• Cultivars occur by humans selecting plants to breed with each other. For example, Acer saccharum ‘Autumn Splendor’ is a popular sugar maple cultivar. 

• Hybrid (x) is a cross between two or more species. Hybrids can occur in nature or with human intervention. Acer × freemanii, (Freeman's maple) is a naturally occurring hybrid between Acer rubrum and Acer saccharinum with a red maple’s strong branches and a silver maple’s speedy growth.

Name Changes

Just when you think you’ve got binomial nomenclature all figured out, plant names will change. Modern taxonomists meet periodically to determine whether official names and classifications need to be changed based on new evidence like DNA sequences that disprove genetic relationships. Some of the more recent changes include the renaming of many native asters as Symphyotrichum and the reclassifying of Sanseveria as Dracaena.

Plant ID Resources

Overwhelmed? Don’t sweat. Linnaeus would have loved today’s tech tools that make plant ID easy peasy. Use the camera app on an iPhone or the Google Lens on an android phone to tap on a plant image and find its name. Apps like iNaturalist further elevate plant identification allowing you to load findings to a citizen science database to track plants and wildlife globally. Want to dive even deeper? Check out the The Plant List, an online working list of all plant species assembled by the world’s top botanical institutions. And if you need help speaking Latin, check out Fine Gardening magazine’s pronunciation guide with phonetic spellings and audio clips of hundreds of plant names.

Selecting Bulbs

Native to South America, amaryllis are tender bulbs about the size of a grapefruit. They are hardy to zone 8, so they won’t survive northern winters. However, they can be grown indoors for an impressive show. The common name, “amaryllis,” is Greek for “amarysso,” meaning to sparkle or scintillate. Living up to their name, these bulbs deliver 8-inch blooms. Premium amaryllis bulbs will sprout as many as three stems, each bearing two to four large blooms. Flowers come in two-tone, double flowering and solid colors ranging from red, pink and white to even green and orange. Try classic ‘Apple Blossom’ in pink and white, ‘Picotee’ in white with narrow red edges or ‘Lion King’ with regal red blooms. Bigger bulbs mean larger the flowers, so invest in premium sized bulbs for a grander show. Note: bulbs imported from South Africa normally take 3-5 weeks to bloom, while ones from Holland take 4-8 weeks.

Potting Up Bulbs

Purchase bulbs either potted or unpotted. If unpotted, start with a container that has a drainage hole and is wide enough to allow one to two inches between the bulb and the edge of the pot (typically a 6-7” pot). Fill the container one-third full of moistened potting soil. Place the bulb – tip up – in the center of the container; add enough soil to cover all but the top third, then finish by watering gently with lukewarm water.

Forcing Blooms

Set the potted bulbs in a sunny warm location (ideally a south-facing window in a 70-80°F room). Keep the soil slightly moist but not soggy. Water sparingly until a flower stalk emerges then water weekly as the top third of the soil dries out. Bulbs that are overwatered will rot. Note: Waxed bulbs do not need water to grow.

Caring For Post-Blooms

After flowering, amaryllis bulbs can be tossed or cared for to rebloom the next year. To recycle, cut off the spent flower stalks leaving the leaves. Next, treat the bulbs as houseplants leaving them in a sunny location and watering as needed. After the threat of frost, move the pots outside to a sunny location or plant the bulbs in the ground in full sun for the summer. Water regularly and fertilize the plants monthly with a balanced fertilizer to help bulbs recharge for another season. In fall, cut off the foliage and move the bulbs to a dark, cool place (e.g., in a garage closet or basement) to rest dormant for two months. The bulbs can then be repotted and brought indoors to grow and flower again. Note: While you can wait until frost blackens the leaves to bring them indoors, the bulbs will rebloom later, typically around Valentine’s Day. If you prefer a holiday bloom, start the dormant phase by Sept. 1.

Learning More

The National Garden Bureau named the amaryllis the 2023 Bulb of the Year and provides additional resources on its history and care.

When is the best time to plant spring bulbs?

Plant spring bulbs when the ground is cool but not frozen (September to early December), ideally when soil temperatures range between 40 and 50 degrees. Check soil temperatures with a soil thermometer or look online at the CFAES weather station. These bulbs require a winter chilling period in the ground to instigate blooms.

Where do you plant spring bulbs?

Spring bulbs thrive in a sunny or partly sunny spot with well-drained soil. We’ve learned the hard way that bulbs will rot if planted in heavily irrigated beds or low-lying areas that tend to stay wet especially in the winter. Also, they won’t bloom if planted in the shade. Instead, try planting them on a sunny slope, in an existing flower bed or even tucked in the lawn. Early flowering varieties can grow under deciduous trees before trees leaf out. We also love planting them among hostas, hellebores and daylilies that hide bulbs’ fading foliage after blooms are gone.

How do you plant spring bulbs?

Plant bulbs twice as deep as they are tall. For example, dig a 4” hole for a 2” bulb. Place bulbs – pointed ends up – in the base of the hole. For more wow or what some call a “bouquet effect,” plant bulbs in clusters of five to seven. Cover the bulbs with soil and gently press the soil to remove air pockets. For the biggest show, choose the largest size bulbs and plant them generously. Also try prolonging the bloom season by planting early, mid-season and late flowering spring bulbs.

Can you cut back spring bulbs’ foliage after they flower?

Avoid clipping spring bulbs’ leaves when their blooms are gone. Instead, wait six to eight weeks, so the leaves can help refuel the bulbs for the next season. To hide withering foliage, try planting with later spring plants like hostas and daylilies whose leaves emerge just as the spring bulbs fade.

My bulbs aren’t blooming any more. What can I do?

If bulbs stop blooming, they may need 1) a balanced fertilizer, 2) a move to a sunnier location, or 3) divided and replanted.

Do spring bulbs help pollinators?

Yes, home gardeners can plant spring bulbs to help sustain early pollinators like queen bumblebees, mason bees and hover flies emerging hungry for nectar and pollen. These early blooms provide critical food when little else is flowering.

What bulbs are deer resistant?

There are several deer- and rodent-proof bulb options in the Amaryllis family, including daffodils, snowflakes and snowdrops. These bulbs contain a bitter, poisonous substance called lycorine that mammals won’t eat. Other bulbs such as alliums, grape hyacinths and squill have a smell or flavor that’s undesirable to deer and rodents.

To keep deer and voles away from more desirable tulips and crocus, try spraying the bulbs with a deer repellent in fall before planting. Also spray around the bulbs in spring as the foliage emerges. Repellents like Plantskydd and Liquid Fence can be effective in masking this “tulip candy” from voles and deer.

What are some favorite spring bulbs?

• Daffodils: Bulbs don't get much easier than daffodils, and you can’t beat their cheerful yellow or white blooms. Try the classic 'Dutch Master,' mini ‘Tete a Tete,’ or the double ‘White Lion.’ Find out more about daffodils at daffodilusa.org.
• Crocus: When planted in mass, these dainty, cup-shaped blooms -- only two to four inches tall -- create a carpet of color in purple, yellow or white. For $20, you can buy as many as 100 to plant along a perennial border, under a tree or even in the lawn.
• Snake’s head fritillaria: In mid-April, these checkered, bell-shaped flowers add novelty to the spring garden. Plant them along a walkway to enjoy their delightful blooms. Also, try the showier crown imperial fritillaria climbing three feet with orange blooms atop a spiky crown of leaves.
• Allium: These ornamental onions are beloved by humans and pollinators alike for their spherical, Seussical blooms in purple, white, yellow and red. They open in late May and June, filling the gap between spring bulbs and summer flowers. Try ‘Globemaster,’ one of the largest with flower heads 8”-10”.
• Hyacinth: These spiked flowers are treasured for their heavenly fragrance. Plant them along a path or near a door to enjoy their scent. Try ‘Blue Jacket’ in deep blue and ‘Pink Pearl’ in bright pink. Also, try grape hyacinth that shares the same name but is unrelated. They’re delight planted along the edge of a border or beneath taller daffodils and tulips.
• Tulips: Yes, tulips may have a shorter life than other bulbs, but their showy flowers are undeniable. Plant them near the house and use a deer repellent to protect bulbs and blooms. Learn more about their rich history and multiple classifications at the National Garden Bureau. Try a multi-colored tulip like ‘Apeldoorn Elite’ in red and yellow or solid-colored ones like ‘Blue Aimable’ or ‘Yellow Flight.’

When is a good time to plant mums?

September is a perfect time to plant garden mums. And we are fully stocked with miles of these fall beauties. In fact, our industry grows millions each fall to dress up front porches, refresh landscape beds and update summer pots.

How do mums have so many blooms?

Last we counted, one of our large mums was loaded with 200+ blooms – quite a value for $13 especially considering all the work that goes into making these showstopping plants. Indulge us for a quick behind-the-scenes walk through the mum production process. First, top-performing cultivars are developed by breeders for optimum flower size, color and plant shape. Next, growers pot up cuttings of these proven varieties each spring to ensure a bounty of full plants by fall. They strategically cut back early foliage to encourage branching and more flowers. By early summer, they up pot them into larger pots and pinch back flower buds to delay blooms until fall. By late August and early September, mums are loaded with fresh buds and ready for customers to buy and enjoy at home.

Can they grow in the shade?

We recommend planting mums in a SUNNY location (at least six hours) for maximum blooms. Yes, they can tolerate part sun but won’t thrive in shade. Here, you’ll find their blooms won’t be as abundant, and their stems may grow leggy.

How can I make blooms last longer into fall?

To make mums flower longer, try these three tips.  First, resist the temptation to buy plants with fully open flowers. Instead, look for plants with plenty of buds that are just “cracking color.”  Second, be sure to keep plants watered, and don’t let them dry out between waterings that quickly zaps their blooms. Third, protect blooms from extreme temperatures. In the super-hot days of late summer, move pots to a location with afternoon shade. Later into the fall as frost warnings approach, protect blooms overnight with an old bed sheet or temporarily move pots indoors. Finally, deadhead spent blooms to keep plants looking fresh for weeks.

Will mums come back next year?

Garden mums can return for another season . . . if you’re up for the hassle. At our own homes, we find it’s simpler to treat them like annuals and buy new ones each fall. Here’s why. It takes a lot of effort to get garden mums to repeat the same fabulous show each fall. First, they need to be planted in the ground before October 1. Next, you need to cross your fingers that the newly planted mums won’t heave (push out of the ground as the soil freezes and thaws) their first winter since their young roots haven’t fully established.  If the mums survive the winter, they will then need fertilized, cutback and disbudded at key times through the spring and summer. Otherwise you’ll end up with these giant blobs that will take over other plants in your perennial bed or devour half of your porch and bloom sparsely in August. If you’re still up for this challenge, go for it. But if you’re like us, enjoy mums’ colorful blooms for a season then toss them like annual petunias or marigolds.

What are some long-lasting alternatives to fall garden mums?

For perennial fans, there are several stunning fall perennials to combine with “annual” mums. Our favorite flowering fall perennials include asters, coreopsis, black-eyed Susans, echinacea, anemones, and stonecrop sedums to name a few. For perennials with colorful fall foliage, try coral bells, ornamental grasses, ferns, amsonia and barrenwort.

Ready to learn more about mums?

Mums have been around for centuries. They were first cultivated in 15^th century BCE in China as a culinary herb. The botanical name Chrysanthemum is derived from the Greek word “chryos” meaning gold and “anthemon” meaning flower. Chrysanthemums belong to the Asteraceae or daisy family. Today, the National Chrysanthemum Society identifies 13 classifications of mums, including garden mums. Check out the society’s collection of educational videos on propagating mums, pruning mums and even growing mums for show. Finally, join in celebrating mums this fall with festivals and displays at Meijer Gardens (Grand Rapids, MI), the Barberton Mum Festival (Barberton, OH), Niagara Parks (Niagara Falls, Ontario) and Longwood Gardens (Kennet Square, PA) with its incredible 1000-bloom chrysanthemum.

At Mt. Cuba Center’s Trial Gardens in Delaware, scientists evaluated dozens of plant cultivars from coneflowers to garden phlox to see which ones gain the most butterfly visits. Read on for our favorite nectar and host plants from this trial and our own experiences.

Nectar Plants

Coneflowers (Echinacea): These native flowers are super popular for good reasons. They’re tough as nails, bloom through the summer and tolerate drought conditions. While many of the new cultivars are super cool, studies show butterflies prefer the classic single blooms versus the funkier pompom and double varieties. Try the dwarf ‘Pica Bella,’ the colorful ‘Cheyenne Spirit,’ the top-performing Sombrero series, ‘Kismet Raspberry,’ ‘Snow Cone’ and the native Echinacea pallida -- a host plant for the silvery checkerspot.

Bee Balm (Monarda): From the mint family, bee balm is a nectar source for butterflies especially swallowtails and silver-spotted skippers. Today’s cultivars are more mildew and disease resistant. Plus, their colors range from white and red to purple and pinks, with sizes from dwarf (12”) to four feet. Top performers include ‘On Parade,’ ‘Grand Marshall’ plus the Balmy and Sugar Buzz series.

Garden Phlox (Phlox paniculata): Phlox weave color through the late summer garden. At the Mt. Cuba trial garden, ‘Jeanna’ – a classic native selection -- was a hit with 518 butterfly visits. New hybrids are more mildew resistant, reblooming and more compact. Try ‘Uptown Girl,’ the Opening Act series and the Fashionably Early series.

Tall Verbena (Verbena bonariensis): This tall purple Brazilian variety is a popular nectar source with butterflies. We love how its tall, willowy stems add a hazy see-through effect to a perennial border. The plants are hardy to zone 7, so we treat them as annuals and replant each year.

Lantana (Lantana camara): These nectar-rich annuals bring butterflies in droves. They provide non-stop color in red, orange, yellow, white, pink, and purple and even offer a slight, spicy floral fragrance. Try new varieties like the ‘Sunrise Rose,’ and Bandana and Bloomify series. They’re incredibly heat tolerant and perfect for containers and hanging baskets.

Stokes Aster (Stokesia laevis): This drought-tolerant native perennial features large purple blooms in mid-summer. The flowers close at night and reopen with the morning sun ready to greet butterflies and hummingbirds. Plant in well-drained soil and deadhead for extended blooms.

Ironweed (Vernonia): Climbing 3-7 feet, this purple-flowered, fall-blooming perennial adds plenty of height to the back of the border. Combine ironweed with ornamental grasses. Try compact varieties (like ‘Summer Surrender,’ ‘Iron Butterfly’ and ‘Summer Swan Song’ that reach 3 to 4 feet.

Oregano (Origanum): Butterflies are herb aficionados, and oregano is one favorite. Plant wild marjoram (Origanum vulgare) as well as purple oreganos (Origanum laevigatum) ‘Hopley’s’ and ‘Herrenhausen’ for an irresistible nectar source. Also try ‘Aureum’ with golden leaves and pink flowers.

Zinnia (Zinnia): These hard-working annuals are butterfly magnets. Plant the Zahara or Profusion series along a sidewalk or add the taller Benary’s and State Fair varieties to a cutting garden. The bigger-flowered varieties serve as landing pads for nectar-seeking butterflies. Red and hot pink flowers get the biggest draw.

Hardy Hibiscus (Hibiscus moscheutos): These hardy perennials attract butterflies with their giant, tropical-looking flowers. In late summer, these impressive four-foot plants emerge and bloom with flowers. Learn more about this favorite in our Hardy Hibiscus post.

Sedum: While sedums are beloved for their cool succulent leaves, butterflies are drawn to their late-summer flower clusters. They offer a great nectar source through fall. Try ‘Dazzleberry’ with hot pink blooms and purple foliage, ‘Lime Zinger’ with apple-green leaves and pink flowers or ‘Autumn Fire’ with deep red flowers.

Asters (Symphyotrichum): These signature fall-flowering perennials are a must-have for foraging butterflies. They fill a nectar gap late in the season when few other plants are in bloom. Asters are also a host plant for silvery checkerspot and pearl crescent. Try New England aster (Symphyotrichum novae-anglia), Aromatic aster (Symphyotrichum oblongifolium) and the Kickin aster cultivars.

Host Plants

Beyond nectar, butterflies need host plants to provide food and cover for their young. Here are a few to add to your garden.

Milkweed (Asclepias): For monarchs, milkweed is a must-have. Monarch caterpillars exclusively feed on milkweed leaves before they form chrysalises. Plant common milkweed (Asclepias syriaca), swamp milkweed (A. incarnata), and butterflyweed (A. tuberosa). 

Passionflower (Passiflora): This vigorous perennial vine features intricate flowers in purple and white. The name was given by 14^th century Roman Catholic priests for plant’s parts that symbolize elements of Christ’s crucifixion also known as “passion.”  Passionflower is a host plant for fritillaries.

Hollyhock (Alcea rossea): These cottage garden biennials are host plants for painted lady caterpillars. Varieties range from single to double flowers and a host of colors. Plant them along a wall or fence to support their towering spires.

Pearly Everlasting (Anaphalis margaritaceae) – Part of the aster family, this North American native grows three feet and features silver-gray foliage with white rounded flowers. It is a host for painted lady and American lady caterpillars.

Bronze fennel (Foeniculum vulgare): Plant this aromatic perennial herb to host Eastern black swallowtail caterpillars. We love its wispy dark purple foliage and bright yellow flowers in the landscape. Enjoy some of its licorice-flavored leaves before the caterpillars do.

Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta): These cheery perennials are the larval host to bordered patch, gorgone checkerspot and silvery checkerspot butterflies. They thrive in full sun and are heat tolerant.

Ornamental grasses: Ornamental grasses also provide habitat for young caterpillars. Carex pensylvanica supports 36 species of caterpillars. Little bluestem and switchgrass are hosts for many skipper caterpillars.

Trees and shrubs: Many are surprised to learn butterflies also turn to trees and shrubs as hosts for their young. Add some of these favorites to host various butterflies in your backyard: oak trees (Horace’s duskywing and banded hairstreak), willows (Western swallowtail, viceroy, mourning cloak), pawpaw (zebra swallowtail), black elderberry (spring azure), spicebush (spicebush swallowtail) and chokeberry (Weidemeyer’s admiral, red-spotted purple, spring azure and tiger swallowtail).

Choose Water-Wise Plants

To start, we highly recommend native plants and plants from arid regions for water-wise gardens. Try Midwestern prairie plants like baptisia, coneflowers, bee balm, black-eyed Susans, coreopsis, liatris, yarrow, Agastache and asters that are adapted for our hot, dry summers. Also, look for drought-tolerant plants from desert, Mediterranean, and arid mountain regions. Our go-tos include sedums, succulents, cacti, blanket flowers, lavender, yucca, lambs’ ears, Russian sage, lantana, glove thistle, sea holly, catmint, salvia, gaura and ice plant.

Collect and Use Rainwater

Next, tap into the benefits of rainwater versus city water or softened well water. Rainwater is free of salts and treatment chemicals. It is also slightly more acidic and contains traces of beneficial organic matter and nitrates. Try collecting rainwater by connecting a rain barrel to your downspout. A 1,000-square-foot roof collects about 625 gallons of water from just 1 inch of rain. Your plants -- both indoors and out -- will thank you.

A rain garden is another way to conserve and collect rainwater. It basically is a recessed area placed in a low-laying area of your property and filled with water-loving plants. It’s designed to temporarily hold and soak up water reducing runoff from roofs, driveways, patios and lawns. Check out this USDA fact sheet for tips on building a rain garden and this central Ohio plant list including cardinal flower, hardy hibiscus, New England asters, irises, milkweed, culvers root and switch grass – all found at Groovy Plants Ranch.

Water Deeply in the Morning

When supplemental water is needed for plants, the most precise watering technique is hand watering with a hose or watering can. Just water the base of plants where water is taken up through the roots. Be careful about wetting foliage which lead to increased risks for fungal and other diseases.

For larger beds, especially newly planted ones, sprinklers and soaker hoses are good options. Try using a faucet timer to control the amount of water you use. Automated irrigation systems are helpful with larger properties. Whatever technique used, remember morning is the preferred time which minimizes evaporation and allows foliage to dry before day’s end. Wet foliage overnight can invite fungal diseases such as powdery mildew.

Check plant tags for watering needs and observe plants for clues like drooping leaves to know when to water. Tropicals and annuals will likely need more water than native perennials. Also, newly planted perennials, shrubs and trees need more water during their first year as they get established. Check out this video for more tips.

Use Mulch and Compost

Boost moisture retention by adding organic matter to the soil. Also add a layer of mulch to flowerbeds and around the base of shrubs and trees to minimize moisture evaporation during dry spells.

Containers

Keeping up with container watering can be especially challenging in the height of summer. First, start off with a container with a bottom drainage hole. Also consider the type and size of containers. Coir hanging baskets and terra cotta pots tend to dry out faster than resin or glazed ceramic ones. Also, smaller pots dry out quicker than larger ones. For soil, fill containers with a light potting mix not a heavy garden soil. When combining plants, avoid mixing ones with different watering needs (e.g., petunias and succulents). Before watering, first check soil moisture by inserting a finger to the first knuckle. If your fingertips don’t feel moisture, then it’s time to water; otherwise wait a day or two and recheck. When watering, remember to water thoroughly (until water leaves the bottom hole). For more details, check out Jared’s videos on watering hanging baskets.

At Groovy Plants Ranch, we sell flowering potted dahlias that make it easy for beginners to get started on this road to nirvana. Read on for more tips and background on this heavenly flower. We know you’ll be eternally grateful!

Botanical History

Dahlias belong to the Asteraceae family along with daisies and sunflowers. They grow naturally in high mountain regions of Mexico and Guatemala where the temperatures are cooler. According to the American Dahlia Society (ADS), early Spanish botanists discovered hollow-stemmed tree dahlias that the Aztecs used to haul water. Explorers brought dahlia seeds, tubers and plants to from central America to Spain and other European countries. The Madrid Botanical Gardens ended up naming the plant after Swedish botanist Anders Dahl who was especially interested in its tubers as a food source. Today, there are 42 recognized species and thousands of cultivars. 

Dahlia Variety

Dahlias bloom from midsummer until the first frost and in nearly every color except blue. Their sizes range from 2-inch pompoms to 10-inch dinner plate sizes. Most varieties grow four to five feet tall. They come in single-flowering types in orchid, anemone and peony shapes. They also come in double-flowering types including cactus, ball and pompom shapes. The ADS categorizes today’s dahlias by size, form, and color. Try growing them in cutting gardens, perennial borders or decorative containers.

Dahlia Anatomy

Dahlias grow from a clump of underground tubers that look like potatoes. In spring, new sprouts emerge from the “eyes” where the tubers come together at the base of the stem. These tubers provide stored energy to fuel plants’ growth. They multiply and grow, so you will have more tubers by the end of a season. 

Growing tips

Either purchase dahlia tubers for spring planting or get a jump start with blooming potted plants.  To plant, select a sunny area with a minimum six hours of sun, preferably morning light and afternoon shade. Dahlias thrive in well-drained soil that has been enhanced with compost or manure. Tubers can be planted in early May, while potted plants can be planted anytime after the threat of frost. For tubers, remember to plant them with the “eye” of the tuber facing up. 

Be sure to stake taller varieties with 5- to 7-foot stakes at planting time. Also, fertilize them at planting time then again when plants reach 18-24 inches tall (about July 1). In late June or early July once the soil has warmed, mulch around the plants with straw or grass clippings. This mulch layer plays an important role in cooling soil, conserving moisture and eliminating weeds. Dahlias need an adequate supply of moisture. Water at their bases as needed and water thoroughly but not excessively (which can lead to rotting tubers). Watch for insect damage either tolerating minimal injury, hand removing insects (e.g., slugs or Japanese beetles) or treating as needed (be sure to follow package instructions). 

Disbudding

For larger blooms, try this disbudding technique. Once dahlias grow two to three sets of leaves, cut and remove the top to encourage branching. The denser and more compact the plants, the better the results will be. Continue to remove side buds to improve the size of the end blooms. The technique reduces the number of blooms but increases bloom sizes. 

Digging and Storing Tubers

Dahlias are hardy in USDA zones 7 to 11. So, in northern zones, dahlia tubers must be dug and stored for the winter. Dig the tubers in late fall before the ground freezes. Brush off the soil and allow tubers to dry out in a garage for a week or two. Once dry, place tubers in a milk crate, Styrofoam cooler or cardboard box then cover them with wood shavings (from a farm store) or sawdust. Store them in a dark cool place (e.g., garage, unheated basement or utility room). For more details, see this article from ADS.

Learn More

• Visit the American Dahlia Society (dahlia.org) for helpful tutorials and a directory of local chapters that host sales and workshops.
• Check out this British dahlia fanatic and her dahlia flower farm on Instagram @dahliabeach
• Read Discovering Dahlias by Erin Benzakein (Chronicle Books, 2021)
• Dahlia Types Explained - National Garden Bureau (ngb.org)

At our entry rock garden, many customers pause to admire beauties like sculptural agaves, flowering tall sedums and mounds of colorful stonecrops tucked among boulders. Thousands more fill tables inside and outside our greenhouses. There’s virtually a sea of colorful and shapely succulents including mini jelly bean sedums, stunning rosettes and intricate creepers in blues, greens, purples and golds. Even more sedums spill from our Mercantile rooftop and the repurposed gutters along the Trading Post. You might say we’re a little succulent crazy!

Getting Started

If you’ve tried succulents indoors, you already know how easy-care they can be. Many are native to arid desert and alpine regions, so they’ve adapted to hold water in their leaves and stems to withstand drought conditions. In the home landscape, they thrive on neglect and only need occasional watering. The key is to plant them in a sunny, well-drained location. Count on them to do most of their growing in the spring and summer then go dormant or semi-dormant in winter. They are incredibly frost hardy. Just make sure they do not sit in water or they will rot. 

There’s an abundance of cold-hardy varieties to collect. We love all the cool shapes and colors including some that change with the seasons. Many even feature colorful blooms that attract pollinators. 

Easy-Care Hardy Succulents

Here are a few favorites for beginners:

• Hens and Chicks: These alpine succulents feature thick fleshy leaves that form rosettes in a host of hues. Each larger “hen” produces smaller “chick” offsets that can form tight clumps or be cut to grow more plants. Their botanic name Sempervivium meaning “alive forever” hints at their toughness. Try ‘Purple Passion’ with a ring of purple offsets; ‘Cobweb’ with bright green rosettes covered in white webbing; and ‘Ruby’ with maroon foliage and pink blooms. ‘Gold Nugget’ turns from yellow-green in the summer to a deep gold and red in cooler months.

• Groundcover Sedums: These creeping sedums are perfect to place in rock gardens, along walkways, or cascading over boulders and stone walls. In bloom, many form carpets of color. A few foliage favorites include 'Tricolor' in striking red, white and green; ‘Voodoo’ in deep red; ‘Angelina’ in gold; and Orostachys iwarenge 'Dunce Cap' in silvery-grey. In winter, Dunce Cap’s rosettes dry up into tiny balls, disconnect and roll themselves to other parts of the garden where they’ll grow the next season. So fascinating!

• Tall Sedums: These easy-care perennials offer plenty of pollinator appeal and four-season interest. Many have colorfully mounded foliage and fall flower clusters. Try ‘Plum Dazzled’ Sunsparkler sedum with purple foliage and magenta blooms; ‘T-Rex’ with toothed foliage and pink flowers; ‘Dark Magic’ with purple-black foliage and deep pink blooms; and ‘Mohave Jewels Diamond’ with purple-red foliage and bubblegum pink flowers.
• Prickly Pears: These succulents are known for their flat, oval-shaped pads, showy flowers and tasty fruits. Many hardy ones can endure temperatures as low as -20°F. We offer several premium varieties including Opuntia tortispina, Opuntia sanguinea and Opuntia polyacantha. Also, try Opuntia ‘Mulberry Creek’ with stunning flowers in rose and cream.

Extra-Care Hardy Succulents

Hardy agaves and ice plants are two other types of outdoor succulents that can successfully grow in colder climates given they’re planted in mounded sandy, gritty soil. The selections below are hardy to zone 5a but need to be kept dry especially in winter to avoid root rot.

• Hardy Agaves: These highly architectural plants make a bold statement in the garden. Try Agave parryi var. truncata with silver-blue rosettes and red-brown toothed edges; Agave havardiana with powdery blue rosettes and summer-flowering spikes; Agave lechuguilla with narrow green spikey leaves; and Agave montana (Mountain agave) with gorgeous green leaves and cinnamon red teeth. Agave virginica is a native agave that we grow from seed. 

• Ice Plants:  Unlike their name, ice plants love the heat and are super drought tolerant once established. They’re adored for their profusion of showy flowers that open in mid-morning and close at night. Try the Ocean Sunset series with violet or orange blooms or the Jewel of the Desert series with garnet, ruby and peridot blooms. 

Planting Hardy Succulents in a Rock Garden

Hardy succulents are perfect for a rock garden. To plant your own, find a sunny spot along a patio, a dry pocket along a border or a south-facing slope. The key is good drainage. We start by placing boulders in a rough border then build up a shallow mound of soil in the center. Add a few more river rocks or smaller boulders. Next add plants starting with one or more statement specimens like agaves. Tuck in smaller plants among the rocks, mixing textures, shapes and colors. Beyond succulents add heat-loving, drought-tolerant perennials like yuccas, lavender, sea hollies, coneflowers and blanket flowers. Finally, top dress the area with pea gravel or crushed granite to keep the plants' crowns dry and help control weeds. Water thoroughly once; after that, most plants will subsist on normal rainfall. 

Learn More
Check out these resources for more information on hardy succulents, grow tips and planting a rock garden:

• Succulent groups: Central Ohio Cactus and Succulent Society and Midwest Cactus and Succulent Society
• Books: Plant Lover’s Guide to Sedum by Brent Horvath, Succulents Simplified by Debra Lee Baldwin or Rock Gardening by Joseph Tychonievich
• Succulents 101 video: Liz shares tips for growing both indoor and outdoor succulents.

History

Petunias are native to South America and part of the same plant family as tomatoes, peppers, potatoes and tobacco. They were discovered by Spanish explorers in the early sixteenth century then later hybridized in Europe in the early 19th century. Thompson & Morgan, a long-time British seed company, retells the plant’s fascinating history and explains that “petuns,” as the natives called them, were originally deemed a “worthless tobacco plant” by early Spanish explorers. In fact, they chose not to send back samples to Spain. Three hundred years later, French explorers returned home from Argentina with samples which led to more explorers’ collecting petunias and initial crossings of the samples in England, Germany, America and Japan.

Variety

Looking for edging, a ground cover, colorful updates for a tired perennial border or a trailing plant for a hanging basket? You can find a petunia to suit you. Petunia hybrids are divided into the following categories, based on their flower size and growth habit.

• Grandiflora are the most popular type with the largest flowers (3 to 5”). Some varieties cascade, making them ideal for hanging baskets or window boxes. Series include Dreams, Trumpet, Cascade and Aladdin.
• Multiflora have smaller flowers (2”). The plants look best when massed together in a landscape bed. Series include Carpet, Celebrity and Pearls.
• Millifloras form tight, shrublike mounds no more than a foot high, with 1-inch blooms. They are used as edging or mixed with other annuals in containers. Series include Fantasy and the newly introduced Tiny Tunias.
• Trailing or ground cover grow quickly over a large area, spill over walls or trail from hanging baskets. Series include Avalanche and Wave.
• Calibrachoas were once part of the petunia genus then later named to a separate one. While referred to as “million bells” or “mini petunias,” they differ from petunias in their drought tolerance and broader range of colors. They’re ideal for containers and were named the 2018 Annual of the Year by the National Garden Bureau. We love the calibrachoa-petunia hybrids in the SuperCal series that offer a long bloom season for hanging baskets.

Care Tips

Petunias are grown as annuals in most of the United States and should only be planted when the soil warms to about 60F degrees and the frost danger has passed. Plant them in full sun and well-drained soil. Larger flowered ones like Grandifloras need extra care, since they do not perform well in extreme heat, humidity and rain. Try planting them in a location with afternoon shade, and if planted in containers, move them under shelter during heavy rainstorms. A fertilizer is super important for petunias since they’re such fast growers and prolific bloomers. Add a balanced fertilizer to those in the ground. For containers, apply a liquid fertilizer (follow the fertilizer label; typically 1/2 teaspoon per gallon) every week. Water plants in the ground weekly or more frequently during high heat and drought periods. Water hanging baskets weekly in May then amp up watering daily in the hot summer months. Morning time is best, and remember to thoroughly soak soil at the base of the plants. Also, avoid overhead watering that beats down the flowers. For more details, check out Jared’s “How to Correctly Water a Hanging Basket” video.

If you’re tempted, it’s easy to dip your toe in water gardening. Start simply with a patio container or dive deeper with an in-ground pond and a sea of options. If we haven’t lost you with our wet humor, read on for more water gardening tips.

Sizes

First, decide which size is best for you. Patio containers are often best for beginners since they’re easy and affordable – the perfect way to learn the basics with minimal costs. When you’re ready for the next level, try the more challenging yet highly rewarding larger ponds.

• Patio Containers – Select a watertight container at least 18 inches in diameter. Possibilities include a resin bowl-shaped container, a galvanized stock tank from a farm supply store or a lined whiskey barrel. Next, stack bricks along an inside edge of the container then fill it with water. Place a water lily (keep in its original basket) on the bottom, so its stems are submerged and leaves float. Use a brick to elevate the pot if the stem is short. Arrange companion plants like common rush or dwarf papyrus atop the brick stack, adjusting bricks so the pot tops are flush with water. Maintain the container by regularly removing dead leaves and floating algae. Refill it as water evaporates; and overfill monthly to refresh water. Add aquatic plant fertilizer tablets and mosquito dunks, which contain a bacteria toxic only to mosquito larvae and not pets or plants.
• In-Ground Kit – Shop big box stores for DIY pond kits complete with liner, skimmer, filter and pump. Starter kits range from 4’ x 6’ to 8’ x 11’. There are multiple steps, so follow along with a comprehensive video tutorial like this one from Aquascape.  

Location

Water gardens perform best in a sunny spot with six or more hours of sunlight. The side of a sunny patio is ideal, so you can sit and enjoy its beauty.

Aquatic Plants

Like terrestrial plants that grow in soil, aquatic plants take in carbon dioxide and release oxygen through pores called “stomata.” The stomata for aquatic plants have adapted so they are located on the upper sides of leaves exposed to the air. Here are four aquatic plant groups based on their location in the pond.

• Floaters: Plants like water hyacinths and water lettuce float on water. They add oxygen to the water for fish, and their long root systems help filter the water. These are fast growers, so don't hesitate to thin them so they don’t cover more than 50 percent of the water surface. Compost them or share with others. 
• Marginals: These plants thrive on the edges of ponds in 4” to 12” inches of water. They include arrowhead, rush, creeping Jenny, marsh marigold, papyrus, irises, dwarf cattails, cardinal flowers and sweet flag. Canna lilies (Tropicana, Cleopatra and Glauca) and colocasia can also be grown submerged in water along the edges. 
• Bog plants: These plants grow on pond shores where water just barely covers the soil. Here, try our carnivorous (insect-eating) pitcher plants with their colorful tubular leaves.
• Surface plants: Water lilies and lotus are the stars of the water garden with their iconic Monet-inspiring blooms. While most waterlilies’ leaves and flowers float on the surface, lotus leaves and their flowers rise above the water surface. We carry hardy water lily varieties like ‘White Albatross’ and salmon-colored ‘Colorado’ as well as lotus varieties like ‘Red Light’ and ‘White Cotton’.

To preview several of these aquatic plants, see this video from Oklahoma State University extension.

Adding Fish

When customers are ready to add fish to their waterscapes, Jared refers them to Ohio Koi  -- just five minutes away. We think of Ohio Koi as the “Groovy Plants Ranch” of the fish world with rare Japanese koi and specialty goldfish plus a super-knowledgeable team. The place was founded by Todd Elliott in 2016 when he turned his hobby and passion into a full-time business. Today, Todd offers a large collection of fish in six mud ponds and 13 indoor tanks, demonstration waterscapes, pond equipment, water treatments, fish food and more.

When Todd’s customers arrive requesting koi, he often walks them over to his large pool with 2’ and 3’ koi as he tactfully inquires about the size of their pond. He explains koi typically need 300 gallons of water and live 20-30 years on average (the record koi age is 200 years!). On top of that, koi are schooling fish, so that means they should be purchased in pairs now doubling the necessary water capacity to 600 gallons. As Todd spells out koi needs, he starts talking about specialty goldfish that only need 15 gallons per fish. He explains these are not your common pet-store variety. Rather, they feature beautiful patterns and colors and premium prices.

In getting started with fish, Todd advises customers to start small and learn the basics with a small pond before investing in a larger custom-built waterscape. 

“Water is the lifeblood of the pond for fish and plants,” he says, so you have to learn how to manage it correctly (using bio and mechanical filters). Once you have that mastered, you’re ready to tackle larger ponds and more exotic fish like koi and their 100 varieties with rare ones costing thousands of dollars.

Insider Water Gardening Tips

• Color water. Use pond dyes to enhance reflection, retain heat, mask debris on the bottom and discourage algae growth.

• Pot water lilies. Any size water lily can grow in a pot since they’ll only grow to the size of the container.
• Keep aquatic plants (and exotic fish) contained in ponds and pots. In the wild, some can be invasive and complete with natives.
• Overwinter water lilies. In cold climates, hardy water lilies can survive in ponds. When grown in patio containers, lift water lilies, trim stems and store in a bucket with an inch of water in a protected garage (30° to 50° F) for the winter.
• Recycle nutrient-rich pond water. Scoop buckets of pond water to feed bedding plants, hanging baskets and houseplants. The combo of aging plants, naturally present microbes and fish waste act as a natural fertilizer.

Learn More

Check out the International Waterlily & Water Gardening Society for helpful articles, a directory of local chapters and a list of public gardens with water features. Our favorites include Naples Botanical Garden, Denver Botanic Gardens, Missouri Botanical Garden and Longwood Gardens.

Layer on the canna lilies, banana trees, elephant ears and hibiscus. Cue the Jimmy Buffet playlist. Pour yourself a cool drink, and kick back in your own northern paradise. At Groovy Plants Ranch, we love our collection of tropical plants and the vacation vibe they bring to patios and pool decks. ­­­­Here are a few of our favorites to create your own escape.

• Canna lilies (Canna) – These easy-care tropical bulbs bring a riot of color with their bright green, dark purple and even variegated foliage. In late summer, they send up towering stalks with iris-like blooms in yellow, red, salmon, orange or pink. Plant them in a sunny spot in pots or in the ground. They’ll really take off by feeding them regularly with a liquid fertilizer. At the end of the season, dig the bulbs to overwinter.
• Elephant Ears (Colocasia) – Dial in a jungle effect with these large heart- and arrow-shaped leaves. Try ‘Blue Hawaii’ with blue-green leaves or ‘Mojito’ with green leaves mottled in dark purple. For Jurassic size, go with ‘Thailand Giant’ and its four-foot leaves. Plant them in containers and place in part sun. In winter, move them indoors to grow as houseplants.
• Ti Plants (Cordyline) – For flamboyant color, Hawaiian Ti plants are our go-to. They’re the perfect central thriller plant for your container designs. Their long, narrow leaves radiate from a central stalk. Grow them in part sun. Try ‘Red Sensation’ in dramatic purple-red, ‘Red Sister’ in maroon and flamingo pink or ‘Candy Cane’ with green leaves striped in red and cream.
• Giant Hostas (Hosta) – Go big with hostas for some tropical garden punch. A few of our super-sized favorites include ‘Sum & Substance,’ ‘Empress Wu,’ ‘Blue Hawaii,’ ‘Jurassic Park,’ ‘Great Expectations’ and ‘Age of Gold’ that grow four to six feet in width. Hostas prefer part to full shade and evenly moist soil.
• Hardy Hibiscus (Hibiscus moscheutos) – Native to North America, hardy hibiscus will surprise you in late summer with their giant pinwheel-like blooms. Plant them in full sun and keep them consistently watered. Today’s hybrids feature a variety of gorgeous blooms and foliage combinations. Try ‘Summer Carnival’ with magenta blooms and variegated leaves, ‘Blackberry Merlot’ with velvety red flowers and deep green leaves or ‘Midnight Marvel’ with scarlet blooms and deep purple leaves.

• Pineapple lilies (Eucomis) -- This South African native is a cool novelty plant with its tropical-fruit-like flower spikes. The lilies put on a show beginning in early summer when their strappy olive-green leaves emerge. In late summer, cream flowers open and age to deep rosy purple. Plant bulbs in containers or sunny perennial beds. In winter, dig bulbsto store indoors, then replant them in spring.
• Banana Trees (Musa basjoo) – At Groovy Plants Ranch, we’re wild about hardy banana trees. In June, they start growing leaps and bounds, show off all summer, die back in fall, withstand sub-zero winter temperatures then fabulously return each season. Plant them in full sun and fertilize weekly with a liquid fertilizer.

• Mandevillas (Mandevilla) – This tropical flowering vine adds ongoing splashes of color with red, pink, white and apricot trumpet-shaped blooms. Plant the vines in a pot or in the ground in full sun. Provide a frame, trellis or bamboo stake for support. Try the classic ‘Alice Dupont’ -- the queen of tropical vines that climbs to 20’. We also like the Sun Parasol series with their large showy blooms and more compact sizes. Mandevillas are native to Central/South America and grown as annuals in northern states.

• Coleus (Solenostemon scutellarioides) – You can’t have too many of these fast-growing annuals, known as the “Hawaiian shirts” of the plant world. They bring a fun flair to summer gardens with their wildly patterned and fabulously colored foliage. They’re native to Southeast Asia and grown as annuals.

• Crotons (Codiaeum variegatum) -- Crotons offer eye-catching, textural foliage for container arrangements and borders. They hail from the tropics and hold up in hot, humid weather. Try the classic 'Petra' with leaves veined in red, orange and yellow or more quirky 'Corkscrew' with spiraled leaves.
• Bromeliads (Bromleiaceae) -- These stylish plants bring an exotic flair to patio containers with their colorful, long-lasting blooms and strappy, often patterned leaves. Pot a couple varieties together or combine these thrillers with spillers like ivy, creeping Jenny or sweet potato vine. After flowering, the parent plant dies, and new growth or "pups" emerge. Some bromeliads grow best in sun while others prefer shade. A couple favorites include Neoregelia 'Guacamole' and Neoregelia ‘Malbec.’

• Bigleaf Magnolias (Magnolia macrophylla) – Yes, this unusual magnolia looks like something you’d find in a jungle, but it’s actually native to North America (Ohio to Florida). Kids of all ages love the tree’s 30-inch oblong leaves and giant blooms. Grow in most, well-drained soil in full sun to part shade. The national champion is found in Tight Hollow, KY and measures 108 feet tall.
• Birds of Paradise (Strelitzia reginaI) – Native to South Africa, these regal beauties feature long-lasting, crane-like blooms. They’re closely related to banana trees and feature similarly large leaves. In the summer, grow them in pots outdoors in plenty of sunshine then move indoors in late fall to grow as houseplants.

Each year, the National Garden Bureau (NGB) selects one perennial to showcase as the Perennial of the Year. The evaluation team makes selections based on a perennial’s popularity, growing ease, adaptability, genetic diversity and versatility. For 2022, we couldn’t be happier they chose phlox.

Phlox History

Phlox is a North American native perennial found in natural woodland, prairie, and meadow landscapes. According to the NGB, this classic perennial was one of the earliest North American natives to be grown as a garden plant. With vibrant flower colors and blooms lasting many weeks, it is easy to understand what caught the eye of so many gardeners through the years. We even remember this nostalgic plant from our grandmother’s borders. Today, phlox is enjoying a revival as plant breeders develop new hybrids that are more compact, earlier to flower, and have better disease resistance to powdery mildew and leaf spot.

Phlox Anatomy

While phlox may vary in size and bloom time, all have tubular flowers, each with five petals. Their colors range from white, pink and magenta to purple and blue. Luckily, pollinators find them all appealing.

Growing Tips

To grow phlox, check garden tags for specific water and light needs. Most thrive in full sun with well-drained soil. We find creeping varieties will not grow as dense in shade. Tall garden types will tolerate light shade but will bloom more and grow healthier in full sun. Make sure new plants get at least one inch of water the first season until they’re established. When watering, water at the plant’s base and avoid overhead sprays to keep leaves dry and minimize the risk of powdery mildew. Also, try cutting back phlox after blooming for another round of later blooms. 

Phlox Varieties

• Spring bloomers – Creeping phlox or moss pinks, botanically known as Phlox subulata, are low-growing, ground-hugging plants. They work well as groundcovers and create carpets of living color in early spring. They’re typically native to rocky, well-drained environments. Check out the new hybrid ‘Woodlander’ -- a mounding groundcover that flowers later than the classic subulatas but before the tall garden phlox varieties.
• Summer bloomers – Tall garden phlox (Phlox paniculata) appears statuesque in the perennial border, growing two to three feet. They bloom for six weeks or more in the heat of the summer. Some start blooming in mid-summer, and others flower in late August. Here at the Ranch, we have heart-eyes for their large, rounded flower panicles that look like softballs atop each stem. Our favorites include ‘Jeana,’ a classic native selection with long panicles of lavender-pink flowers that pollinators love; and the Opening Act hybrids, a mid-height series of reblooming, mildew-resistant phlox, averaging 2-2½’ tall. 

First off, it helps to select plants that have unappetizing characteristics for deer. Think rough or fuzzy leaves like lamb’s ears. Strong scents also act as deterrents. Prickly or thorny foliage like cacti and roses keep deer away. And, bad taste signals deer that plants like daffodils, foxglove and poppies are toxic. 

Next, go for deer resistant perennials when you’re plant shopping. Also, apply deer repellents like Deerskydd to young, newly added plants for three weeks. This keeps curious deer from sampling them. 

If you’re still determined to grow plants on the deer-delectable list, we recommend planting them near the house, hiding them among odorous companion plants like French marigolds or ultimately protecting them with a tall garden fence. Here are our favorite deer-resistant perennials.

1. Allium – Bees love this tough perennial’s purple chive-like blooms, yet deer don’t like its oniony flavor and smell.
2. Amsonia – This perennial shines in two seasons -- 1) spring when small blue flowers bloom atop feathery chartreuse leaves and 2) fall when the foliage turns an impressive gold.
3. Baptisia – This tall perennial makes a great back-of-the-border plant with its grey-green foliage and pea-like flowers in blue, pink or yellow.
4. Shasta daisies – This old-fashioned summer favorite produces an abundance of blooms that make great cut flowers.
5. Bleeding heart – We love this spring beauty’s dangling heart-shaped blooms, and thankfully deer find its sap disgusting.
6. Brunnera – This shade plant is prized for its silvery, heart-shaped leaves and sprays of blue spring flowers. The deer don’t like the roughness of its leaves.
7. Catmint – Here’s another deer-resistant perennial with fuzzy, fragrant foliage. We also love its long-flowering purple blooms and toughness in dry conditions.
8. Coneflower – These adored natives come in a variety of colors and forms. Luckily, deer don’t like the flowers’ spiky centers or scented leaves. 
9. Coreopsis – These summer-bloomers attract butterflies and have a long bloom period.
10. Dianthus – Also known as “pinks,” these spring-flowering plants quickly multiply and their scent keeps deer away.
11. Gaillardia – This richly colored “blanket flower” offers nectar for butterflies and is resistant to deer browse.
12. Hardy hibiscus – This shrub-like perennial offers a tropical flair to gardens with its giant, late-season blooms. 
13. Hellebores – Nothing welcomes spring like these rugged, shade perennials that bloom in late winter and last for months. Their shiny evergreen leaves are an added bonus that are toxic for deer. 
14. Japanese painted fern— This beauty’s silver and purple fronds add interest to a shade garden.
15. Lady’s mantle – Perfect to edge a border, this perennial has velvety green leaves and sprays of chartreuse flowers.
16. Lamium – This fast-spreading groundcover is perfect for wooded areas that deer frequent. It features spring flowers and silvery green foliage. 
17. Lavender – We can’t get enough of lavender’s pretty purple flowers and heady fragrance; happily, deer find it “stinky.” 
18. Lungwort -- This flowering woodland shade perennial has fuzzy leaves that are deer resistant. The leaves range in color from solid green to pure silver to a mottled combination of the two.
19. Monarda – The flower heads are hemispheres of tublar blooms in brilliant colors. They’re a hummingbird favorite, and their mint-scented leaves are a deterrent to deer.
20. Ornamental Grasses – Fortunately, most ornamental grasses are deer resistant. Some of our go-tos include little bluestems, panicums, fountain grasses, sedges and Japanese forest grasses.
21. Peony – These long-lived perennials are beloved for their single and double spring blooms. Plus, they’re deer resistant.
22. Rudbeckia – Also known as Black-eyed Susans for their flowers’ dark centers, these perennials have hairy stems that deer don’t like.
23. Russian Sage – Talk about tough. Even in the hottest days of August, this plant shines with its purple flowering spires and feathery, silver foliage. Deer are deterred by its fragrance.
24. Salvia – Salvia’s purple spires may dazzle pollinators, but its strong scent keeps deer away. 
25. Speedwell – The wands of speedwell’s blue-purple blooms delight pollinators. 
26. Yarrow – While we love the fun colors of the latest yarrow cultivars, deer don’t like their fuzzy, fragrant foliage.

*Some photos courtesy of Ball Seed Company

If that’s not amazing enough, they travel 1,000 miles from Mexico to mate here and raise their young. So, we’re happy to give them a big welcome with a nectar feeder and plenty of their favorite flowering plants. Researchers estimate they visit as many as 3,000 individual flowers in a single day and consume 1.5 times their body weight daily. 

We hope you’ll join us in supporting these amazing pollinators with a buffet of nectar-rich flowers. They love bright colors and tubular blooms perfect for their long beaks and lapping tongues.

1. Salvia (Salvia nemorosa) – Salvias are an absolute hummingbird magnet with their vivid spikes in purples, pinks, reds and whites. Try the classic purple ‘May Night’, newer ‘Skyscraper’ series or heat-tolerant ‘Black & Bloom’ with black stems and purple flowers. Plant them in full sun in landscape beds or containers. After they flower, cut salvias back by one third for a second round of blooms.
2. Hummingbird mint (Agastache) – This fragrant perennial boasts large spikes of tubular flowers that bloom over a long season from summer into fall. Grow in full sun and well-drained soil in a bed, border or rock garden. Try ‘Blue Fortune’ (24-36”) or the more compact Kudos and Poquito series (10-12”).
3. Bee Balm (Monarda didyma) – A member of the mint family, bee balm is a long-blooming perennial that thrives in full sun. Look for the native ‘Jeana’ in purple or newer varieties in dwarf sizes (12-15”), mounded forms and larger blooms. Plant them in mass as a beacon for hummingbirds and other pollinators. 
4. Garden Phlox (Phlox paniculata) – Another summer perennial, this fragrant garden phlox is perfect for the cottage garden. It prefers full sun and reaches 24-48” depending on the variety. Try the classic ‘David’ in all white or newer two-tone, mildew-resistant cultivars.
5. Red Columbine (Aquilegia canadense) – This charming spring perennial blooms just in time for hummingbirds as they return north. Columbine performs best in part shade. We love its nodding red and yellow bell-shaped flowers. 
6. Cardinal Flower (Lobelia Cardinalis) – This native perennial is found naturally along rivers, ponds and wetlands, so plant it in a low-lying area of your garden and keep it mulched to help retain moisture. Cardinal flowers definitely are a go-to for hummingbirds with their tall, red flower spikes. Interesting note: the flower is named for the red robes worn by Roman Catholic cardinals.
7. Coral Bells (Heuchera) – Yes, these shade perennials are known for their colorful foliage, but their dainty bell flowers do attract hummingbirds. We grow a wide selection of coral bells from ‘Purple Palace’ to ‘Carmel’ to two-tone ‘Solar Eclipse.’
8. Red Hot Poker (Kniphofia) – Add some vertical spikes to your border with red hot pokers. You’ll find them in saturated hot colors like red, orange and yellow as well as ombres and two-tones. We also like their grass-like foliage. Plant them in clusters in full sun and well-drained soil.
9. Crocosmia (Crocosmia) – This wonderful South African summer-blooming bulb features symmetrical flower spikes in fiery shades of red, orange and yellow. Plant crocosmia in full sun to part shade in well-drained soil. They grow to 3’ in height and easily multiply to share with friends. 
10. Trumpet Vine (Campsis radicans) – This vigorous vine can climb 40 feet, so plant it in full sun along an arbor, trellis or fence. Don’t be afraid to prune it back to keep it in check. Hummingbirds love its orange-red tubular flowers.
11. Honeysuckle Vine (Lonicera sempervirens) – Trumpet honeysuckle is another great vine for hummingbirds with its fragrant, trumpet-shaped blooms. Don’t worry this vine is not invasive like bush honeysuckle. Rather, it is a slower grower and eventually reaches 10-12’. Train the vine up a trellis, fence or arbor for the best show. 
12. Fuchsia (Fuchsia) – Hummingbirds love our hanging baskets of fuchsia! Their dangling, lantern-like tropical blooms are truly showstoppers. Grow them as annuals, and keep them out of the sun; they thrive in shade to part shade. 
13. Red Canna Lily – Red cannas are another hummingbird darling. Plant these tropical rhizomes in large pots in full sun for a hummingbird show on your patio. Try red-flowering Tropicana or Australia varieties.
14. Aloe Vera – For a Groovy favorite, try aloe plants that send up long stalks covered in bell-shaped flowers, once plants are mature (4 years or more). To encourage blooms, place in a south-facing window and begin monthly liquid fertilizer applications in spring. Move indoor aloe plants outdoors for the summer once nighttime temperatures are 60 degrees or higher. Gradually transition them to bright indirect light, and watch for blooms on mature plants. Repotting can also encourage blooming in root-bound plants. Getting aloes to flower takes patience but is well worth the wait.

Learn More

• A slow-motion video of a hummingbird drinking, flying and shaking

• National Geographic’s video on how hummingbirds sustain their high energy

• Super Hummingbirds show on PBS
• How to Make Hummingbird Nectar for your feeders by the National Audubon Society.

We recently chatted with our friend Lloyd Traven -- the man behind ‘Fignomenal.’ Jared has known Lloyd for years, even longer than he’s known Liz. Lloyd and his wife Candy own Peace Tree Farm, a wholesale greenhouse near Philadelphia where they grow many cool herbs and unusual edible plants that we love. We asked Lloyd all about his passion for fig trees especially ‘Fignomenal.’

GPR: How did you get started growing figs?

Lloyd: We’ve been in the business growing herbs and edible plants for 40 years. I love figs, so I started to grow them. I tried the hardiest – Black Mission, Brown Turkey and even Chicago Hardy. I eventually started selling them at the farmer’s market, and talked many Italian customers from South Philly into buying them. I continued to sell more and more – even 100s between the market and our wholesale customers.

GPR: How did ‘Fignomenal’ come about?

Lloyd: I started learning fig varieties and eliminating ones that weren’t remotely hardy like the wonderful, tropical ones that are so ridiculous to grow. I was working with a group of Chicago Hardy figs when I noticed a branch on one looked really different. It was dense, almost stunted -- like what we call a “witch’s broom” on pine trees and propagate as dwarf cultivars. Low and behold, this branch was covered with little figs. We propagated it and propagated it some more. And, it’s the dwarfest fig I’ve ever seen. At three years, it is covered in figs – dozens that ripen in the north. Still, it is only 28 inches tall and 30 inches across. By April, fruits started to appear, and by July, we were eating them. We knew it was really something special, so we named it ‘Fignomenal’ – a twist on our ‘Phenomenal’ lavender cultivar. In 2020, we unveiled it at Cultivate, the big industry trade show, and it won the Retail Choice Award.

GPR: Do you have any tips for growing ‘Fignomenal’ figs?

Lloyd: These figs are pretty easy. Plant them in potting soil in a 24” container (with a drainage hole). Keep the soil evenly moist but not bone dry. If extremely dry or soaked, they will drop leaves.  They take full sun and like hot temperatures. Just morning sun is not enough. They should be fertilized but not crazy. Grow them outdoors until fall when all the leaves have dropped – often around Thanksgiving.  Store them dormant in a garage or basement for the winter. They don’t need light and only need water once or twice. By mid-April, move them back outdoors and begin to water them. They will start to green up and sprout new leaves. If the temperatures drop, the tree is small enough you can it move to the garage or cover it for protection.

How do you know when the figs are ready to harvest? 

Lloyd: Figs come in different colors – white, green, purple, maroon and ruby -- so it depends on the type of fig. Often the name, like ‘Little Ruby,’ gives it away. So first, watch for the figs to turn the desired color. Also, gently feel the fruit to see if it has some give then you know it’s close to being ready. Another sign is if the fruits start to slump as they hang on the tree. For Sicilian varieties, look at the bottom, and watch for a drop of honey dew to know it’s ripe. For ‘Fignomenal,’ the fruits first appear as green then turn brown as they ripen.  

What are your favorite ways to enjoy figs?

Lloyd: For me, I cut them into quarters – the perfect size for a salad or to top a pizza. I also cut them in half and broil with some blue cheese and a drizzle of balsamic vinegar. And of course, I love to just pick them off the tree and eat them fresh.

*Photos courtesy of Peace Tree Farm

While humans may welcome the fragrance, plants cleverly use these scents, or chemical volatiles, to attract pollinators and deter predators. Plants pollinated by bees and flies typically have sweet scents while those pollinated by beetles have strong musty, spicy, or fruity odors. And their scent levels vary when the flowers are ready for pollination and when potential pollinators are active. Bees or butterflies pollinate plants whose scent is high during the day, while moths and bats pollinate plants whose fragrance is greatest at night. 

Check out these ten common and not-so-common aromatic plants to elevate your garden inside and out.

1. Lavenders – There’s nothing like the soothing scent of this purple flowering plant, and the fragrance profiles vary among the 450 different types. Classic French lavender is the loudest and used in perfumes and sachets. ‘Provence’ is our favorite for its fragrance and winter hardiness. Spanish lavenders, also aromatic, offer the showiest blooms with large petaled blooms. ‘Silver Anouk’ is our go-to for its compact size, silvery foliage and toughness.
2. Lilies – Jared and Liz named their oldest daughter after this beautiful, perfumy flower. While many associate the floral scent with funerals, Jared rejects the notion. They’re one of his favorites for their fast growth and invaluable presence. Even at 100 feet away, you can catch whiffs of its lovely aroma. Both Oriental and Orienpet Lilies are fragrant, perform well in the garden and make gorgeous bouquets in late summer.
3. Scented Herbs – Jared and Liz fill their patio seating area with a mix of potted herbs. When a gentle wind rises, the herbal fragrance surrounds the space with a delightful aroma. Try citronella geraniums, mint, lemon balm, rosemary and chamomile. Kids love picking peppermint leaves to chew or chocolate-mint geraniums to smell.
4. Berlandiera – Speaking of chocolate, Berlandiera lyrata or chocolate daisy also sends the scent of cocoa wafting through the air. Their cheery yellow and red-striped flowers open at night and continue to bloom through the morning. Use this perennial to line a border for ongoing color all season. 
5. Purple petunias – These beloved annuals offer a strong and pleasant nighttime  fragrance with their non-stop blooms. Bring the added dimension of fragrance to container designs and hanging baskets with these trailing, spiller plants.
6. Angel trumpet – Brugmansia, commonly known as the angel trumpet, makes a stunning statement and instantly adds a tropical flair to any garden or patio. It’s dangling 8-inch blooms have an exotic perfume which is most intense at night. Be aware this plant is part of the poisonous nightshade family. 
7. Imperial Fritillaria – With crowns of orange and red blooms atop 3-4’ stems, these flowers stand regal in the spring garden. As an added bonus, you don’t have to worry about hungry squirrels digging up and devouring these beauties. Their skunky scent is the perfect deterrent. Jared even laughs recalling how a traffic officer at the Ranch was once fooled by the plant’s scent, thinking instead it was his “groovy” customers.
8. String of Pearls – This succulent’s clusters of blooms have a thick vanilla-clove scent. In the greenhouse, the team often notices the flowers’ scents before they spot their dainty, white blooms. To encourage spring flowers, cut back on watering and move the succulents to a slightly cooler area (around 60 degrees Fahrenheit) throughout the winter months.
9. Hoyas – Yes, many collect hoyas for their beautiful waxy leaves, but their fragrant, porcelain-like flowers are equally impressive. Depending on the variety, the blooms smell like mocha, cinnamon, a sweet tootsie roll and other unique fragrances. Be patient; flowers appear on mature hoyas, typically 5 to 7-years old.

Corpse Flower – If utter repulsion is your thing, there’s nothing like the foul-smelling Amorphophallus titanum that may attract homicide detectives to your property. The plant is truly offensive in every way from its stench to its physique. Just look it up! We sell a number every year and are confounded by where customers are going to grow these stinkers.

1. Panicle Hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata) – Of all the hydrangeas, panicle hydrangeas are our top pick for their large conical blooms, winter toughness and flexibility from full to part-shade locations. You’ve probably heard of ‘Limelight’ (6’-8’) for its showy, lime green blooms. We also like ‘Quick Fire’ for its earlier pink blooms, ‘Pinky Winky’ for its color-changing blooms from white to deeper pink. For smaller spaces, try ‘Little Quick Fire’ and ‘Bobo’ (both 3’-5’). Tip: leave hydrangeas’ dried blooms for winter interest then prune them back in early March. 
2. Oakleaf Hydrangeas (Hydrangea quercifolia) – Oakleaf hydrangeas do double-duty with their beautiful, elongated bloom clusters and their colorful fall oak-shaped leaves. Try the classic ‘Alice’ that can reach 12’. For double blooms, ‘Snowflake’ is a stunner. And for smaller gardens, check out ‘Ruby Slippers’ (5’) and PeeWee’ (3.5’). We’re also crushing on ‘Jetstream’ for its stunning fall color. Tip: Oakleafs welcome some afternoon shade and should only be pruned every three years after flowering.
3. Snowball Viburnums (Viburnum opulus) – If you’re a fan of hydrangeas’ big summer blooms, try snowball viburnums (6’-8’) for similar spring flower clusters. They’re also known for their incredible fragrance and hedge applications. Other favorites in the large viburnum family include ‘Miss Kim’ with fragrant pink clusters and ‘Blue Muffin,’ a native arrowwood cultivar with nectar-rich spring flowers and blue fall fruits (if planted near a different viburnum variety). cardinals, Eastern bluebirds, robins and cedar waxwings will thank you.
4. Weigela (Weigela florida) – With their funnel-shaped flowers, weigelas (4’-5’) are beloved by hummingbirds and bumblebees. They range in color from deep pink to yellow. Use them as accent plants in a mixed border or mass plant them for dramatic effect.  Our two favorites are 1) ‘Wine and Roses’ with a romantic combo of rosy-pink flowers and dark glossy foliage and 2) ‘Sonic Bloom’ with a flush of hot pink blooms in May then waves of additional blooms until frost. 
5. Bottlebrush Buckeye (Aesculus parviflora) – Native to southeastern states, this shrub makes a statement in the garden with its long, fluffy white flower clusters. They bloom in early July and attract plenty of hummingbirds and butterflies including the Eastern tiger swallowtail. The shrubs thrive in shade to part-shade, so plant them in a woodland garden or at the edge of a woods with plenty of room to grow (6’-12’). Like other buckeyes, these shrubs feature the classic hand-shaped leaves yet bear more pear-shaped fruits rather than shiny round nuts.
6. Lilac (Syringa) – This old-time favorite has incredibly fragrant purple flowers that open in May. Plant them in full sun and prune as needed after flowering. The shrubs can last for decades. Besides the common lilacs, our favorites include dwarf ‘Bloomerang’ (4’-5’) that blooms in late spring and again in mid-summer through fall. To extend the show, add a Korean lilac like ‘Miss Kim’ (6’-8’) or ‘Baby Kim’ (2’-3’) with lighter lavender-colored flowers that bloom slightly later 
7. Ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius)– Button-like flower clusters line the arching branches of these native shrubs in late spring. The newer cultivars feature colorful foliage ranging from gold to burgundy. Ninebarks thrive in sun to part shade. Try the dwarf Tiny Wine series (3’-5’) in burgundy, ginger and gold. Tip: After flowering, selectively prune one third of the branches to the ground to rejuvenate and improve air circulation.
8. Itoh Peony (Paeonia)– Also called “intersectional peonies,” Itohs are a cross between perennial and tree peonies made by Japanese horticulturist Dr. Toichi Itoh. Like tree peonies, they have large, long-lasting blooms and strong stems that don’t need staking. They also have dark green, lush, deeply lobed foliage. Plant them in full sun to part shade in rich, well-drained soil. Deadhead blooms as needed, and cut back to 4”-6” in fall.  
9. Elderberry (Sambucus racemosa) -- This North American native produces big clusters of white flowers in early spring before its lacy leaves emerge. The shrub grows into a large plant (4’-7’) and can be pruned to stay smaller if you like. We prefer the ‘Lemony Lace’ with its lemon-lime foliage and red berries (for the birds). 
10. Summersweet (Clethra alnifolia) – Bees and other pollinators love summersweet’s bottlebrush flowers in white, pink and rose. Plant them near a deck or patio to enjoy their mid-summer blooms and wonderfully spicey fragrance. While summersweet (3’-6’) prefer part shade and moist soil, they adapt to a range of conditions. Try ‘Ruby Pink’ with dark pink blooms or ‘Vanilla Spice’ in white. 
11. Northern Spicebush (Lindera benzoin) – Called the “forsythia of the wilds,” this native shrub (8’-12’) features early spring clusters of dainty yellow flowers on bare twigs before its leaves emerge. It’s a host plant for spicebush swallowtail, Eastern tiger swallowtail and promethea silkmoth. Plant it to naturalize in woodlands, especially as a replacement for invasive bush honeysuckle. 
12. Eastern Wahoo (Euonymus astropurpureus) -- This tree-shrub (12’-20’) features charming red spring flowers and red fall berries making it an excellent food source for native insects and birds. Also, the red fall foliage makes it an excellent substitute for related yet invasive, non-native burning bush shrubs. 

To learn more about these and other flowering shrubs, visit arboretums in person and check out their websites. A few of our go-tos include Morton Arboretum (Chicago), Dawes Arboretum (Newark, OH), Holden Arboretumv (Kirtland, OH) and Missouri Botanical Garden (St. Louis, MO).

*Photos courtesy of Monrovia

Annual or Perennial?

Annuals, unlike longer-living perennials, complete their life cycle in one season. They grow from seed, flower, produce more seed (for future generations) then die. In the north, we also label tropical plants, like coleus and lantana, as annuals since they die when temperatures dip and must be replaced each year. 

Seeds or starts?

Annuals are sold as starts (young plants) in quart pots, six-packs and even in flats. They can be planted in the landscape after the last frost and provide a jump start on the growing season. For the more adventuresome, annuals can also be started by seed. While growing annuals by seeds saves money and opens the door to a wider availability of plants, it also takes some time and planning. In our gardens, we like to plant a combination of the two – 1) seeds for easy-to-grow annuals like nasturtiums and marigolds and 2) plants by the multiples to fill beds for instant impact.

Selecting Annuals

Before shopping, it’s smart to take a look at your space and decide where you want to add annuals. Is it a shady bed in the backyard, a sunny border along the driveway, containers for the patio, or a dry spot by the mailbox? There’s a perfect plant to match each situation – just check plant tags for light and water needs.

Besides growing conditions, consider a plant’s height, color and texture as you assemble your purchases.  Shorter plants like alyssum are ideal for the edge of a border while taller plants like garden phlox are better at the back of the border.

One more factor to consider is performance. Look for cultivars bred for disease resistance, vigor and extended bloom time. At Groovy Plants Ranch, we sell top performers including many All-America Selection winners. To see some of the newest cultivars first hand, visit a trial garden like those at Chadwick Arboretum or Cincinnati Zoo and Botanical Garden.

Care

Wait until the last frost to plant annuals. Make sure to thoroughly water them once planted. Annuals are heavy feeders and benefit from an all-purpose fertilizer such as 5-10-5 or 10-10-10. Either apply a slow-release granular fertilizer at planting time or apply a fast-acting liquid fertilizer every three to four weeks. Follow the fertilizer package directions for top results. 

Annuals also quickly become thirsty because of their shallow roots. Remember to water them when the soil feels dry about one inch below the surface. Take note: annuals planted in containers will need more frequent watering than those planted in the ground.

To keep the blooms coming, many annuals benefit from “deadheading” or removing old blooms before they go to seed. These include snapdragons, cosmos and marigolds.  Other annuals (like calibrachoa) start looking ragged by mid-summer and gain from a cut back to encourage new growth. For pruning details, see this guide by Fiskars. 

Design Inspiration

Maybe the best part of annuals is the endless possible combos for containers and landscape borders.  Here are a few ideas from our Pre-Order Collections and more to help get you started.

• Butterfly favorites: Welcome butterflies with a trio of nectar-rich and heat-loving lantanas in this Butterfly Fire Trio of pink, yellow and orange.

• Shade combos: Light up your shady spots with our TropiCool collection (wasabi coleus, electric blue lobelia and ‘Encanto Pink’ begonia) or Shady Character  collection (Dragon Wing® red begonia, pink double impatiens, Dragon Heart coleus and lime sweet potato vine).

• Container stars: Create eye-catching containers with our winning combos. For full sun, try the Full Petal Jacket collection (purple salvia, yellow canna, lime sweet potato vine and pink petunia). For shade, pot up the Hawaiian Wedding collection ('Canary Wings' begonia, Lava Rose coleus, fuchsia and white double impatiens).

• Heat-lovers: For those blazing hot patios, try the Temple of the Sun collection (blue saliva, Sunrise Rose lantana, and yellow portulaca).

• Humdingers: Welcome hummingbirds with our Humdinger collection (blue and purple salvias, hot pink calibrachoa and Campfire coleus)

• Fillers: Mix annuals to fill in and weave together perennial beds. Some of our favorite fillers include tobacco plant, gomphrena, ageratum and alyssum. Also, fill gaps left from fading spring bulbs by planting shallow-rooted annuals like coleus atop them.
• Cut flowers: Plant annuals like zinnias and cosmos to cut for fresh flower arrangements or plant everlastings like celosia, strawflowers and amaranth for dried flower bouquets and wreaths.

Perennials vs. Annuals?

Perennials, annuals and even biennials – they all have their own unique qualities and benefits. In our own gardens, we like to combine all three to harness their strengths.

• Perennials: Perennials like coral bells, hostas and coneflowers are a solid investment since they return each spring for three or more years. They form clumps that grow larger and eventually can be divided for more plants. They may be slow to start from seed, so we recommend buying plants. Different perennials bloom at different times -- peonies in spring, daylilies in summer and asters in fall.
• Annuals: Annuals live only for one season, but they sure put on a show with their impressive and continuous blooms. Thankfully, they’re reasonably priced and available in flats to replant each spring. Many annuals like sunflowers, cosmos and zinnias are easily started from seeds.
• Biennials: A few plants like foxgloves and hollyhocks live for two years. The first year, they grow leaves, roots and stems then flower the second year. 

Perennial Shopping Tips

• Make a list: Before you go plant shopping in person this spring, do your homework and make a list. Collect ideas from videos, Pinterest, magazines, public gardens and even your neighbors’ gardens. 
• Stagger bloom times: It’s easy to load a shopping cart full of spring-flowering “eye candy.” Instead, shop for a mix of perennials including those that are not yet in bloom but will flower later in summer and fall. 
• Think beyond blooms: Many perennials are known for their colorful, textural foliage like ferns and hostas that bring long-lasting beauty to the garden.
• Read labels: Check plants’ labels to make sure the plants are right for your growing conditions whether shade (less than 4 hours of sun), part shade (4-6 hours of sun) or full sun (6 or more hours of sun). Sun-loving daylilies won’t be happy in a shade garden.
• Buy in multiples: Instead of assembling one of everything, consider buying quantities of a few single varieties in a complementary color palette.
• Evaluate pot sizes: Perennials come in varying pot sizes from 2.5” to one gallon, so pick the size that fits your budget, space and expectations.

Transporting Perennials

When plant shopping, it’s smart to throw a tarp in the back of your vehicle. Plastic tubs are also handy for loading plants. After shopping, plan to head straight home with your purchases; plants can suffer when left in a hot car between errands. Once you arrive home, unload plants and place them in a shady location until you’re ready to plant. Check to see if any are dried out, and water them as needed.

Perennial Planting Tips

Prepare landscape beds, ideally before you go plant shopping. We like to add 2-3 inches of compost and hand till it into the soil with a garden hoe. Next, arrange the plants atop the soil. Place taller ones in the back and shorter ones in front. While working, try to reach into the beds and avoid stepping on or compacting the soil. Once you have the plants in place, you can begin planting. Remove a plant from a pot by placing one hand at the base of the plant; turn the pot upside down with your other hand, and catch it with the first hand. Dig a hole deep enough so that when the plant is placed in the hole its crown is level or slightly above the surface of the ground. Fill soil around the plant then gently press the soil around its base. After all the plants are installed, top the soil with a layer of mulch and thoroughly water the plants with a sprinkler or garden hose. 

Perennial Plant Care

During the first year, new plants need at least one inch of rainfall, so be sure to supplement with water as needed. If it is hot and dry, you may need to water more than 3 times a week. If it rains a lot, then watering may not be needed. When watering, always remember to deeply water plants to their roots; a light surface watering won’t do the trick. Check on plants regularly and watch for stresses like yellow or droopy leaves, critter damage and diseases. The Missouri Botanical Garden has a helpful trouble-shooting guide. To keep your plants looking fresh later in the season, we recommend cutting them back to encourage more growth and blooms.  Here’s our guide.

Winning Plant Combos

Colorful Shade: Under a shade tree or along the north side of a house, try ‘Berry Smoothie’ coral bells, ‘Blonde Lipstick’ hosta, ‘Everillo’ carex, ‘Shrimps on the Barbie’ lungwort and ‘Sun King’ aralia.

Purple Pollinators: Welcome butterflies and bees with ‘Balmy lilac’ monarda, ‘Millenium’ allium, ‘Jeana’ phlox and ‘Magnus’ coneflower. Be sure to add asters, too, for late-season food.

Heat Lovers: Along a sunny sidewalk or mailbox, plant these tough, drought-tolerant perennials including ‘Fire Spinner’ delosperma, ‘Belleza White’ guara, ‘Desert Eve Terracota’ yarrow, ‘Sunsparkler Wildfire’ sedum, ‘Silver Mound’ artemisia and ‘Arizona apricot’ gaillardia.

Cottage Charm: Embrace the informal cottage style with this combination of ‘Honey Dijon’ verbascum, ‘May Night’ salvia, ‘Takion Blue’ campanula, ‘George Davison’ crocosmia, ‘Kudos Coral’ agastache, ‘Sombrero Orange’ coneflower and ‘Becky’ daisies. 

How Plants Use Light

First off, a little botany lesson on sunlight and how plants use light to make their own food. It’s an amazing process called “photosynthesis” with “photo” meaning light and “synthesis” meaning to put together. Plants tap the sun’s energy using chlorophyll found mostly in their leaves. Chlorophyll reflects green – hence the green color of plants – and absorbs blue and red light. Plants then use the light energy to change water and carbon dioxide into 1) nutrients for their food and 2) oxygen to release into the air – a perk for us. Plants vary in how much light they need to thrive from low-light houseplants like peace lilies to high-light fruiting plants like tomatoes. To learn more about photosynthesis, check out this short National Geographic video, this deeper Khan Academy lesson or this cool microscopic peak inside a leaf.

When to Use Supplemental Light

Artificial light can help plants grow indoors when there’s not enough sunlight. They can ensure your veggie seedlings get off to a great start, coax a flowering houseplant (e.g., begonias and orchids) into bloom, and provide enough light to satisfy herbs and succulents even in the darkest spaces. Darryl Cheng, author of the New Plant Parent, offers this chart on light needs for various houseplants.

Choosing the Right Light

When shopping for grow lights, we recommend full-spectrum LED lights which produce a balance of cool and warm light that mimics natural sunlight. LED lights also are more energy efficient and longer lasting than traditional florescent grow bulbs, plus they won’t shatter or buzz like the florescent ones. When evaluating options, consider size (how many plants to light), wattage, price, aesthetic and type (desktop, portable, hanging or complete system shelving unit). Shop for grow lights at your local garden center, hardware store or online source.

• Screw-in bulbs: Labeled “sunlight” or “daylight” on the package, these inexpensive LED bulbs can easily be swapped out with traditional light bulbs for a desk lamp or floor lamp. ($4-$30)
• Clamp lights: These lights are the next easiest and inexpensive option. Plus, they’re simple to clamp to a cabinet, a shelf or table. Go for the industrial look with an aluminum reflector lamp or choose a more modern style with a light bar and flexible gooseneck. ($12-$30)
• Panel lights: Ranging from 10-inch squares to two-foot rectangles, these panels can be attached to a stand, suspended from the ceiling, or mounted under a shelf or cabinet. Match the panel size to the size of your plant collection. ($30-$150)
• Table-top units:  For herb growing or seed starting, try a tabletop unit with hydroponic or soil container options. They range from one foot (ideal for a kitchen countertop) to three feet (better suited to a laundry room counter, basement work bench or folding table set up in an unused guest room). ($80-$300)
• Complete stacked systems: To accommodate a lot of plants or seedlings, consider a stacked system with multiple lighted racks. Many feature adjustable lights, roller feet for portability and easy assembly to tear down when not in use. ($300-$1,000)

Adjusting the Light

Most grow lights include a timer or can be outfitted with one or a smart plug, so you don’t have to remember to turn them on and off. Set the timer for 14-16 hours of light daily for bright-light plants (seedlings and flowering or fruiting plants) or 10-12 hours for low to medium-light plants.  Experiment with the location of the light source, depending on the plants’ lighting needs. While seedlings should have the light source at least 6 inches from the plant foliage, other lower-light plants can be positioned farther from the light source.

Seed Starting Under Lights

• The New Plant Parent by Darryl Cheng – Darryl is an engineer and savvy plantsman from Canada. In this book, he shares plant science in a friendly way that even newbies can understand. We’re big fans of his Instagram account (@houseplantjournal) filled with great images and sound plant care tips, and this book is an upgrade on all that. He teaches the art of understanding a plant’s needs including the powerful tool of observation. He also covers the basics to get new plant parents the confidence they need for success. 

• Tiny Plants by Leslie Halleck – In her third houseplant book, Leslie shares her fascination with tiny plants and hails their perks for plant collectors with limited spaces. Leslie is a pro when it comes to horticulture. She worked 25 years in hybridizing and teaches a popular indoor plant class for UCLA students. In this book, she offers tips for growing tiny plants -- like micro peperomias, mini orchids and baby succulents -- on windowsills and under glass. 

• Houseplant Party by Lisa Eldred Steinkopf – Our friend the Houseplant Guru lives not far away in Michigan and published this latest houseplant project book.  Lisa offers advice on easy-care houseplants like peace lilies, ponytail palms, haworthias and air plants. She also shares some fun uses for houseplant projects – a macrame hanger, wooden trellis and shadowboxes. Lisa knows her stuff with 10 years in the nursery industry and many more caring for her own collection of 1,000 houseplants.

• Wild Creations by Hilton Carter – Hilton brings his design prowess to the plant world. If you follow him on Instagram (@hiltoncarter), you’ve seen his living walls, hanging plant stands and propagation station at his home in Baltimore where he grows 200+ plants. In this book, he walks readers through 25 cool, doable projects and plant hacks to up your own jungle vibe. Check out Wild at Home and Wild Interiors for even more plant styling inspiration.

• Lessons from Plants by Beronda Montgomery – Beronda dives into the “whys” of houseplant parenting. After this read, you’ll walk away wanting to fill every inch of your space with plants for their psychological, mood boosting, carbon absorbing and oxygen nourishing benefits. She also explores plants’ adaptive ways as they respond to their environment and other plants around them. Beronda is a professor at Michigan State University and was named one of Cell’s 100 Inspiring Black Scientists. 

• Houseplant Warrior by Raffaele Di Lallo – From our home state of Ohio, Raffaele shares seven keys to unlocking the mysteries of houseplant care. We love his Insta Reels (@ohiotropics) on watering his plants in the shower and hammering root-bound pots, so we know this soon-to-be-released book (March 15, 2022) will be just as entertaining and informative. Raffaele is an engineer and has been plant parenting for more than 30 years, so he totally geeks out on plants. He helps readers sort through the real and fake advice on plant care. He offers a gold mine of advice for troubleshooting and plenty of first-hand experiences to back it up. He’ll even be visiting the store this spring, so stay tuned for more. 

• Tropical Plants and How To Love Them by Mariann Willburn -- Marian takes a fun relational approach to growing heat-loving tropicals -- like angel’s trumpet and hibiscus -- when you don’t live in the tropics. She gives you permission to enjoy a fleeting summer romance with your tropicals and guides you to a long-term relationship growing them successfully outside and in.

• Hidden Histories of Houseplants by Alice and Maddie Bailey – For the plant curious, this beautifully illustrated narrative explores the fascinating back stories of 20 common houseplants. Sister authors Alice and Maddie answer questions why monstera leaves have holes and why calathea leaves open in day and close at night. The duo come from British horticulture dynasty with a Dutch flower merchant grandfather and plant guide author mother. They head up Forest London, a cult plant and homewares shop in South London. 

• Home Sweet Houseplant by Baylor Chapman – This project book is one of a mini series that also includes Tabletop Gardens and Project Succulent. California author and plant designer Baylor starts with the basics on choosing and caring for plants. Then, she goes room by room, offering unexpected design concepts and inspired projects to elevate your home with plants.

• Houseplant Journals – Start off the New Year recording your plant care in one of the bonanza of new plant journals on the market. Look for journals with logs to record plant names, watering dates, lighting needs, health challenges, repotting and fertilizing schedules. Some also have growth charts, propagation logs and lined pages for personal notes.

How much light do poinsettias need?

Poinsettias need bright light, so place them near a south or southeast. When entertaining, you can temporarily move them to serve as a table centerpiece. During the season, avoid places where temperatures fluctuate. Fireplaces, space heaters and heat ducts will quickly dry out the plants. Poinsettias also are cold sensitive, so keep them away from entries and take care when transporting them as gifts to friends and family. Ideally, wrap them in paper for the trip and don’t stop to run errands. Freezing temperatures will zap poinsettias.

How often do you water poinsettias?

Poinsettias should not be allowed to dry out to the point their leaves wilt and curl. At the same time, poinsettias don’t like to constantly sit in water, or their roots will rot. To check for dryness, stick a finger in the soil to see if the first two inches of soil are dry. You can also check dryness by lifting the pot to see if it is lightweight. If so, it’s time to water. To water, take the pots to the sink. Remove any decorative foil and set the plant in sink. Water the plant thoroughly until water comes out the bottom hole. Allow the plant to fully drain in the sink then return the plant to its original place. Poinsettias don’t need to be fertilized during the holiday season.

How do you say “poinsettia”? 

Both, pronunciations – poin-set-uh or poin-set-eeya – are okay with us. We also love learning that the plant was named after the first U.S. ambassador to Mexico, Joel Poinsett, who brought the plant to the United States in the 1820s. Botanically, the plant is known as Euphorbia pulcherrima. In the U.S., the plants became a holiday hit in the 1960s and 1970s thanks to Paul Ecke Jr. and his pioneering ways to grow and mass-market them among greenhouse growers across the country. In 2002, the U.S. House of Representatives even honored Ecke by naming Dec. 12 National Poinsettia Day. Today, poinsettias are the top-selling holiday plant with national sales of $153 million according to the latest U.S. Department of Agriculture reports. Check out this CBS Sunday Morning feature for more on the plant’s fascinating history.

Are poinsettia leaves poisonous?

Don’t believe what you hear. Poinsettias absolutely are not poisonous! In fact, the Ohio State University conducted a study in 1971 that debunks the common myth. Researchers fed rats high doses (the equivalent of 500 poinsettias leaves for a 50-lb child), and findings showed the high doses didn’t kill the rats or even dent their appetites. Still, we don’t recommend snacking on poinsettia leaves, since we hear they taste yucky and are hard to digest.

What makes poinsettias red? Poinsettias have colorful bracts which are actually leaves not flowers. In their native Mexico and Central America, poinsettias grow like shrubs and turn red in response to shorter winter days. In the wild, these colorful bracts help attract insects to the plant’s tiny yellow flowers in the center of the bracts. After pollination, the colorful bracts will even drop. We can’t stop watching this time-lapse video showing the bracts’ color change at a University of New Hampshire greenhouse.

How many kinds of poinsettias are there?

Today, there are more than 100 poinsettia varieties. While red reigns as the most popular color, there are plenty of other color choices in candy-cane pink, elegant white, deep burgundy, Thanksgiving orange and even multi-colors. Some are even variegated, speckled, marbled or ruffled. Our team favorite -- ‘Tapestry’ – is a real showstopper with its cherry bracts and gray-green leaves with creamy edges. 

What do I do with the poinsettias after the holidays? Most of our customers grow poinsettias as a seasonal plant and toss them on the compost pile after the holidays. However, a few die-hards welcome the challenge of growing them year-round. If you dare to try, here are a few guidelines:

1. After the holidays, grow the poinsettia as a houseplant, following the care instructions above and adding a fertilizer every couple of weeks. With bright light and consistent watering, the colorful bracts can be maintained through March. Eventually, the bracts will naturally begin to fade and drop. Don’t worry; it’s no fault of yours.
2. In April, cut the poinsettia back in half, leaving about six buds. Hold off on fertilizing and reduce watering to every 10 days to give the plant a rest. Also, move it to a cooler location (ideally 60 degrees).
3. In May, repot the poinsettia to a slightly larger pot and return to a warmer, sunny location. Resume regular watering and fertilizing. The plant will begin to leaf out again.
4. Once night-time temperatures stay above 50 degrees outside, the poinsettia can be moved outdoors in full sun. They prefer morning light and afternoon shade. Make sure to water especially in the heat of the summer. In mid-July, pinch back new stems by an inch to encourage more branching.
5. In the September, move the poinsettia back indoors and return to a sunny window. Reduce fertilizer to half strength. To recolor, cover the plant with a cardboard box daily for 14 hours starting in mid-September and continuing until mid-November. Poinsettias should gain color again by Christmas.

So, plant friends, beware! You, too, may get hooked once you get started. Read on for our team’s tips on collecting these beauties.

Learn the Basics

In the wild, the greatest number of orchids grow as epiphytes (air plants) on trees in tropical habitats where they gather moisture and nutrients from the air, rain, and debris that accumulates around their root zones. As houseplants, these tropical plants need bright light, humidity, ventilation, water and fertilizer to thrive and flower. Most orchids are purchased in bloom or in bud and come potted in a bark mix in a clear pot with drainage holes. We recommend keeping the orchid in this clear pot, so you can easily monitor the roots’ health and watering needs. 

To water, plan on weekly or when the bark mix dries out. Take the potted orchid to a sink and immerse it in a bowl of lukewarm water (not softened or distilled) that has orchid fertilizer at ¼ strength. Soak for 10-15 minutes then fully drain the water and return the plant to its place. If any water lingers in the crown of the plant, be sure to blot it dry with a paper towel to prevent rot. Once a month, skip the fertilizer and use clear water to flush out any accumulated salts from the bark mix. Try boosting humidity by misting plants daily or setting pots on a pebble tray filled with water. (Be sure the pot does not sit in water which rots roots.) For summer, experiment with moving orchids outdoors to thrive under a tree.  

Discover the Variety

Many orchid fans build collections around size (all minis), species (all lady slippers), successive blooms or simply personal appeal. The key is to find one you like and one that fits the growing conditions for your home. For example, Cattleyas like lots of direct bright light, while Paphiopedilums prefer lower light. If you’re trying to build a collection with year-round bloom times, start buying one in bloom every month or two. Since most popular orchids bloom once a year, it’s safe to assume the flowering orchid you bought in March will likely flower again the same time the following year. For more specifics, check out the American Orchid Society’s Culture Sheets. Here are six favorites to stretch your collection beyond the common moth orchid or Phalaenopsis. 

1. Oncidiums (on-SID-ee-um) -- This big genus and allied genera are best known for its flower varieties that resemble dancing ladies. Many have complex multi-crossed backgrounds and a wide range of flower colors and shapes. Try ‘Gold Dust’ in bright yellow, Sweet Sixteen ‘Prepossessing’ in maroon with a chocolate scent, ‘Volcano Splendor’ in red and white or ‘Lucky Strike’ in gold, white and yellow. Oncidiums prefer medium to high light and medium to warm temperatures (55 to 60 F at night, and 80 to 85 F during the day).

3. Dendrobiums (den-DROH-bee-um) – This large orchid genus has some of the easiest ones to grow. They’re highly popular since they are very floriferous. Their flowers can last up to 10 weeks. Most thrive in medium light and warm temperatures (60 to 65 F nights, 75 to 90 F days). Try ‘Pumpkin Patch’ in red and yellow, ‘Purple Splash’, ‘Pixie Charm’ in peach, ‘Mini Snowflake’ with dainty white blooms or ‘Cherry Dance’ in purple pink.

Trio of Festive Plants

Let’s start with three holiday plant picks to stockpile for teacher thank-yous, pet sitter gifts, party hostesses and any last-minute gift exchanges. First, our retail manager Felicia recommends the store’s spectacular poinsettias. She’s blown away by our huge selection including classic red as well as ruffled, candy-cane speckled and variegated varieties like our team favorite ‘Tapestry.’

Second, we have an abundance of Thanksgiving cacti loaded with buds (pink, red or white) to put on a show all holiday long for only $9.99 (4-inch pot). Felicia advises giving them bright light and allowing them to dry out before each watering.

Third, we have plenty of potted amaryllis bulbs for gift giving. Your friends will love watching the bulbs come to life as leaves emerge, big blooms unfold and even a second round of blooms can return the next year. Choose from pink, red and white flowers.

Hoyas Galore

According to our ecommerce leader Kelly, hoyas have been crazy popular this year. Luckily, we have a huge selection with more than 30 varieties. These waxy-leaved darlings are low maintenance and reward with surprising, star-shaped blooms. The plants range from minis and heart hoyas to rope and tricolor hoyas. We even have a blog post with plenty of growing tips to jot down and enclose with the plant. We’ll make you look like a plant pro!

Captivating Orchids

Another stylish houseplant option is an orchid. And we offer some stunning varieties you won’t find at groceries or big box stores. Try easy-to-grow varieties like Dendrobiums with their showy flowers or Oncidiums with their tall arching sprays of “dancing ladies.” Our lady slipper orchids (available in store only) are also sure to amaze. For an orchid gift set, add orchid potting mix, liquid fertilizer and a special orchid pot with multiple breathing holes. If you’re ordering online, we’re happy to report impressive results shipping orchids across the country. We carefully package them in bud form, so you’re guaranteed weeks of blooms.

Rare Plant Splurges

For the serious plant collectors on your list, check out our rare plants selection and sign up for emails of our upcoming rare plant releases. Check out our quirky yet affordable Albuca spiralis 'Frizzle Sizzle' with its corkscrew leaves. We also grow unusual beauties like fishtail hoyas, whale fin sansevierias, variegated bear’s paw, triangle ficus, variegated string of hearts and even variegated monsteras. Prices range from $12 for the uncommon to $495 for the super rare. Plant-obsessed loved ones will absolutely swoon!!!

Groovy Soaps, Candles and Cards

At the Ranch, we’re happy to support local artisans and even filled our schoolhouse (and online store) with a selection of soy candles, handmade soaps by head grower Natalie and plant-themed cards by HandHeld & Company. Where else can you find a “cactisaurus” greeting card?

Keep an eye out for our emails. We’re giving away a limited-edition Groovy Plants hippie bus ornament when you purchase through our website on Cyber Monday. Supplies are limited, so shop early!

Punny White Elephant Pot

Our charming white elephant pot is the perfect choice for a white elephant gift exchange. We love it potted with our trendiest mini houseplant -- turtle vine (Callisia repens 'Bianca'). Another fun novel pot is our head planter. Simply fill it with pothos or another vining, hair-like plant, and it’s guaranteed a smile!

If you’d like to unleash your own creativity, check out our new indoor potting bar with a big selection of pots for all your gift plants. Enjoy personalizing plant and pot combinations for each plant lover on your list! Besides, the potting mix is free, and the mess stays at the store.

Gift Sets for All

To make shopping easy, Kelly and Felicia have created several essential gift sets. For the beginner, try our starter set with one- and two-plant options. For the hostess, try our Thanksgiving cactus gift set including a flowering plant, homemade soap and pine-scented candle. For a novel gift, check out the macrame air plant set with an air plant tucked in a cool piece of cholla wood. For practicality, go with the garden tools set or a Preston watering can. For cuteness, consider our mini trio collections of tropicals, succulents or callisias. And, of course, there’s always the gift card option. Your giftee will have fun shopping for the perfect plant and save you any stress!

Share Your Own Wish List

Annuals vs Perennials

First, a little lesson on the difference in plant life cycles of annuals versus perennials. Annuals – you know, petunias, marigolds and sunflowers -- perform their entire life cycle in a single growing season. So, by late October, you can count on all their roots, stems and leaves to die. Their only legacy is their abundance of seeds (and flowers) that help them reproduce for another season. Perennials, on the other hand, live for many growing seasons. Typically, only the top portions of the plants die back each winter then regrow from the roots each spring. Make sense?

Bye Bye, Annuals

After the first big frost when annuals die back, it’s time to remove flowering annuals plus any annual vegetable plants. These frost-zapped plants aren’t so pretty and if they’re left in place, they can contribute to disease problems next spring. With tomato plants especially, there’s the risk of passing on early blight and leafspot if plant debris lingers until next season.

Now is also the time to pull annuals from containers. And, remember to store ceramic or clay containers in a garage or a protected porch to prevent them from cracking as temperatures drop.

Before tossing all your annuals, you might try taking a few cuttings to grow indoors. A coleus plant is an easy one to try. Simply cut a few stems with leaves, place the cuttings in pots of soil, and grow them indoors along a bright window or under grow lights. Also, try experimenting with cuttings of other annuals like geraniums, fuchsia, lantana, begonias and impatiens. Beyond cuttings, try saving a few seeds from flower heads of annuals like marigolds, sunflowers and cosmos. Store dried seeds in a labeled envelope then pull the seeds out next spring to plant.

What’s Up, Perennials

After a good frost, most perennials’ leaves and stems will die back. Many people like to remove this browned foliage for a tidier look. It’s easy to rake away spent daylily and hosta leaves and stems. For woody perennials like lavender and Russian sage, it’s best to hold off cutting them back until spring to prevent winter frost damage. Some perennials like evergreen hellebores and ornamental grasses are better left alone as they bring texture and structure to the winter landscape.  

Consider leaving other perennials standing as winter food and habitat for insects and birds. Coneflowers and liatris provide nutritious seed heads for birds. Hollow-stemmed perennials (asters, goldenrods, thistles, bee balms, black-eyed Susans and coneflowers) serve as nesting sites for insects. Help boost declining insect populations by cutting clusters of stems to 15” and watch to see if insects emerge from the stems in spring. Alternatively, lay fully cut stems in neat piles beside plants to support pupae and insect eggs overwintering in them. To learn more, check out this guide from the Xerces Society.

Leave the Leaves

Stop the madness, stop the madness now! Fallen leaves are a crucial part of our natural ecosystem. They provide habitat for many species of invertebrates like butterflies and beneficial insects, as well as cover for amphibians and other animals. From a growing standpoint, leaving leaves is good for plants and critters. Fall leaves may get a bad rap, but we consider them gardener’s gold. If you prefer a cleaner look, leaves can be mulched in place with a lawn mower. This cuts down on raking and returns nitrogen to the lawn as the chipped leaves decompose.  Leaf vacuums also speed up the job and shred leaves, making them easier to use. We like to cover raised beds with shredded leaves for the winter. The leaf mulch helps minimize winter weeds and can be turned into the soil in early spring. We also layer shredded leaves around shrubs and perennials to suppress weeds, protect plant crowns during winter, conserve soil moisture and later break down to add organic matter to the soil.

While leaves are super fun to pile up and jump into, they’re also great to let rest in a compost pile and breakdown into a nutrient-rich soil additive for future use in the garden. During winter, we love leaving a leaf pile or two as habitat for insects like Luna moths and Eastern Tiger Swallowtails that build cocoons on fallen leaves. 

Come On In, Tender Plants

Many tender “bulbs” such as cannas, dahlias, and gladiolus can be dug up and kept from year to year if properly stored. Just remember to dig the bulbs once the top growth dies back or is killed by the first frost. Use a garden fork or a spade to loosen the soil around the entire plant. Gently lift the bulbs from the ground, taking care not to cut them in the process. Shake off soil, allow to dry then store them in a box (we reuse Styrofoam coolers) filled with sawdust. Tropical elephant ears can be stored in their pots in an unheated garage.

So Long, Weeds

Last of all, don’t give up on weeding in the fall. The extra effort will pay off next spring. By removing weeds before they go to seed, you’ll prevent future weed problems down the road.